[StPeteAPB]

I know there are numerous threads out there about oils, filters, and how-to w.r.t. the oil change on this bike. I just wanted to put a simple thread out there on the how-to for those who've not changed their own oil on a motorcycle before; it's really easy.




To make things easy, have on hand:

• Large aluminum disposable turkey roaster pan (from the grocery store)
• Small aluminum disposable shallow pan
• 65/67mm Cap Oil Filter Wrench
• New Oil Filter ( I prefer the Honda oil filter, personally )
• 2 New Crush Washers
• 4 Quarts of new oil (not getting into the "which is best" dialogue)
• 17mm socket

The process:

1. If the engine's cold, run/ride it for 3-5 minutes
2. Shut off engine and wait 2-3 minutes
3. Place large disposable turkey roaster under both drain bolts
4. Remove dipstick
5. Remove both 17mm drain bolts and allow time for oil to drain
6. Dispose of old crush washers and replace with new ones
   • Should be on bolts removed or could still be stuck to engine
7. Install both drain bolts after oil completely drains and tighten properly
8. Remove oil filled turkey roaster from under bike
9. Place small/shallow aluminum foil pan under filter
10. Remove old filter using 65/67mm cap oil filter wrench
11. Place new oil on finger and run a bead of oil on new filter's gasket
12. Install new oil filter and hand tighten (don't use the wrench)
13. Pour 3.9 quarts of fresh, new oil in where you removed the dipstick
14. Replace the dipstick and tighten
15. Start the engine and allow to run for 3 minutes
16. Shut off engine and wait 2 minutes
17. Sit on bike to keep bike upright and check oil level

Oil and Filter Disposal:

You can pour the oil from the two aluminum disposable pans into a resealable 6 quart oil drain pan and run it to an auto shop that will pour it into their used oil tank. Also, you can drop the oil filter with them, too, for proper Earth-friendly disposal.



Save the aluminum pans for your next oil change or pitch 'em - your choice. But, the nice things are:

• They're flexible so you don't need to put your bike on blocks
• They're soft aluminum, so they won't scratch your paint
• They're cheap, cheap, cheap

One last note: It doesn't hurt to always have TWO oil filters on-hand. Sometimes, rarely but sometimes, there is a defective thread in the oil filter that will keep the filter from installing smoothly and properly ... I have had it happen. Having a second filter on-hand allows you to finish the job properly and return the defective filter at your convenience. The filter should spin on smoothly with no effort whatsoever and the only time things should get tight is when the gasket initially meets the engine block/filter seating.


Hope this was helpful to someone out there.
APB
.

 

[captainfester]

well done, just did this a few weeks ago... great way to save a few bucks.

 

[zoom760]

btw oil filter cap 65/67mm is impossible due to spacing

 

[Kbuskill]

btw oil filter cap 65/67mm is impossible due to spacing

I am going to go out on a limb here and say that in your case it is, because judging by your location in your profile you have a communist... Errr I mean... California model which has the Evap canister mounted behind the oil filter due to the overly anal California emissions laws, which the OP of this thread did not have since he is in Florida.:wink:

 

[macxpert]

I'm a fan of the Boa Constrictor wrench for getting oil filters off. Do yourself a favour and get the real deal, made in UK quality tools. I've had some for more than ten years and they are as good as the day I bought them.

 

[Señor Gar]

Buy it

.

 

[Tknj99]

Or you could always buy the KN-204 filter that has the 17mm socket end for easy on/off with a socket wrench.
One other item I'll add is to not try to torque down that KN filter via the 17mm nut as it will start rounding the edges.
The Honda specs for torque on the filter and also on the drain bolts seems too high in my opinion and I was worried that I would strip them when I changed the oil last year, luckily it didn't strip but I'll prob do it by feel and then check via torque wrench next time.

 

[Ordinary Biker]

Or you could always buy the KN-204 filter that has the 17mm socket end for easy on/off with a socket wrench.
One other item I'll add is to not try to torque down that KN filter via the 17mm nut as it will start rounding the edges.
The Honda specs for torque on the filter and also on the drain bolts seems too high in my opinion and I was worried that I would strip them when I changed the oil last year, luckily it didn't strip but I'll prob do it by feel and then check via torque wrench next time.

I haven't changed my Fury's oil yet, (the dealer did it last time on the 600 mile service) but I have always done the 'tighten till the gasket touches, then a a 1/4 turn more' routine. Never had any leaks. I'd have to actually look up the torque spec on it, AND look at the filter on the bike to see how hard it is. I had to get one like this:

for my truck as the filter is up and 'surrounded' by crap. No strap wrench would work, but this works awesome.

 

[Señor Gar]

I have always done the 'tighten till the gasket touches, then a a 1/4 turn more' routine. Never had any leaks.

Unless that's a typo you are very lucky you haven't lost an engine :skellie:.

 

[Ordinary Biker]

Unless that's a typo you are very lucky you haven't lost an engine :skellie:.

Doubtful. It may be more like 3/4. Always by hand. Turn until it won't turn. I've never put a filter on with a wrench.

 

[The Crow]

I am going to go out on a limb here and say that in your case it is, because judging by your location in your profile you have a communist... Errr I mean... California model which has the Evap canister mounted behind the oil filter due to the overly anal California emissions laws, which the OP of this thread did not have since he is in Florida.:wink:

I've got a California model (despite living in AZ), and among my first mods was removing that damn canister and all that emissions crap! And there is lots more room now for a bigger filter.:wink:
BTW, a trick I've been doing to remove the old filter is just ram a screwdriver through it. Then you can turn it with ease. I learned that trick here.

 

[Ordinary Biker]

BTW, a trick I've been doing to remove the old filter is just ram a screwdriver through it. Then you can turn it with ease. I learned that trick here.

I've had to do that to some pretty over-tightened filters in the past. One in particular on an old Chrysler slant six was a real pain in the ass!

 

[Kbuskill]

It's kinda funny how old threads get revived... Lol

 

[Kbuskill]

I've got a California model (despite living in AZ), and among my first mods was removing that damn canister and all that emissions crap! And there is lots more room now for a bigger filter.:wink:.

I used to run a much bigger filter but then I built my air ride and installed an air tank in that location.:wink:

 

[Deadpool83]

Is it absolutely necessary to drain the oil from both plugs. I was unaware there were 2 plugs and only got 1 new crush washer

 

[krashDH]

Is it absolutely necessary to drain the oil from both plugs. I was unaware there were 2 plugs and only got 1 new crush washer

Yes, drain oil from both plugs. You will get more than you think out of that front plug

I'm still running the original crush washers and I've changed my oil 3x since I've owed the bike ( apprx 5k miles). I have not had any leaks to date. You should be fine re-using.

 

[Deadpool83]

Thank you. I just didn't want to screw anything up

 

[Rope]

Thank you. I just didn't want to screw anything up

Now where's the fun in that approach....sheeessh!:biggrin:

 

[Kbuskill]

Wait...... these bikes take oil??? :surprise:

I thought there was something wrong with all the dirty stuff that came out of those plugs.... I flushed it all out with the water hose in the filler plug thingy until it ran clear... been running it on water ever since :skellie:

 

[donzi18]

Tap water or bottled?