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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Why would anyone pull the front oil drain plug when the bottom one drains it all out. The front plug is a bitch to get to on my 2010 fury.
What is it I,m missing hear?

Fly
 

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Its there for a reason and ment to be drained as well to get all oil out from the crankcase its worth doing. If ypurdoing the oil change already .. there's only one way to do it .and it ain't the half ass way .. ha ha have a nice day...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I find you answer a little offensive but that's ok. Here the deal, I have measured what I drained from the drain in the bottom plus from the oil filter. 3.8 quarts. I see nothing
is gained.
 

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Pull the plug and you will get more oil out of it. Not sure what's getting in the way of pulling the plug, it's easy to remove, the same size socket. Being a wet clutch, the oil is shared throughout the system. There is some oil that gets trapped in the forward part of the case. You're just going to mix dirty and clean oil if you don't. Your decision.

FWIW, most people don't correctly check the oil level and either over or underfill it. If you just drain and fill with a new filter and check via the stick, you can only get around 3.4 qts in until it reads at max. Per the FSM...bike needs to be level (not on kickstand). Run the engine for 5 minutes and kill. Wait 2-3 min. Check via stick (don't screw it in). You will then see that your previous reading of it being "perfect" after your oil change is actually low on the stick...you can get about another 1/2 qt in at that point.

Don't be offended but if you're going to be DIY on the bike, I'd pick up a FSM and do it correctly.
 

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I had oil come from both drain holes. I don't want any dirty oil left so I pull both plugs. Good idea to get drain plug seal washers or you may get Harley spots on your garage floor. (y)
 

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I had oil come from both drain holes. I don't want any dirty oil left so I pull both plugs. Good idea to get drain plug seal washers or you may get Harley spots on your garage floor. (y)
I've been using the same washers since I've owned the bike (4 or 5 years now?).

When I pulled them a couple weeks ago to do all the fluids, they probably could use to be changed. Took a light file to both sides to knock down the raised spots and even the surfaces out, then spent 5 minutes running them flat over some 600 grit. Couldn't even tell they'd been used. If you can't get to a dealer or don't want to buy new crush washers, my method will do ya fine and probably last another few seasons.
 

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There is no point in doing the job and not following the directions from the people that designed and built it.
 
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