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PAIR valve block off plates installed

10K views 31 replies 19 participants last post by  RPM22 
#1 ·
So after doing the ECU reflash, cobra intake and cobra swept exhaust I was getting A LOT of popping. First i thought I had an exhaust leak so I replaced the exhaust o'rings but it didn't help.

Well today I got the block off plates (with dimples) and installed them. All I can say is WOW what a difference they made, the bike sounds a lot better and it got rid of 99% of the popping, unless I'm letting off the throttle completely at 6k RPM's and then I get a small pop. Makes the bike sound a hell of a lot better in my opinion.

Let's not even talk about the fact that when I took off the pair valve and piping I also removed the hose and PCV valve and blocked off the hole at the head. On the first test drive I had a little smoke that smelled like oil come out of the intake. After thinking about the reason and looking at the stuff I took off I realized what I did and reinstalled it.... Apparently I had a brain aneurysm when I was installing the block off plates.
 

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#2 ·
I'm sure it's on here and been asked but u cannt find it can you buy those plates ? Or do u have to make them ? Thanks for any info
 
#5 ·
Thank you!!!!
 
#6 ·
I'll piggyback off this...cobra swepts, cobra intake, fi2000. Eventually I'm going to do the reflash and pull the controller. I have the pops and gurgles currently. Will these block offs be ok with the reflash, or should I keep as is (no blocks)?
 
#18 ·
Good explanation all around. Thanks!
 
#19 ·
why did the bike need this secondary air supply system? So it looks like the "regular" airflow is on a big airway, and this secondary airway is not only thinner, but longer travel? Isn't my main goal to have as much air as fast as poss? Making the shorter wider airway being the better deliver of this? It sort of seems the secondary is like making the "regular air distribution" diffused, and less direct/ impactful?
Here is the manual pic....

I just ordered the dimpled plates, looks like he has no call any more for the non dimpled ones, but anyway, I'm a little :confuzed:
 

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#20 ·
It has one purpose I think !! It's to make the exaust thinner to pass emmisons text same dam dirty are just thinned well maybe a little cleaner
 
#23 ·
Technically if the pair valves directing fresh air into the exhaust for complete burning purposes, it should run cooler, since you are not getting that final burn. You would have to take a temp though to actually verify, before and after. I wonder if anyone's done this?
 
#24 ·
After reading most of the post regarding pair valve removal, is my understanding below correct? Will these have the same end results?

1. Plug the end of rubber hose going to the intake air filter holder, therefore no air intake to the pair valves. Plug as well the hole in the air filter holder where the rubber hose is fitted.

2. Just leave the harness connected to the on/off selonoid OR your option to unplugged it.

Not really necessary to remove the pair valves (replace by blank plates) and plumbings for this modification?

Please need your expert advise ... Thanks in advance.
 
#26 ·
Thanks for your confirmation Kiwi. What about just unplugging the pump harness without plugging the hose? Same thing right? The "emission system" will not open to let fresh air during deceleration.

Sorry for these clarifications as I just want to do minimal conversion ...
 
#27 · (Edited)
I can't remember, but I think blocking the hose off was to prevent moisture and condensation from getting into the hose and potentially rotting it.

If you don't need the assembly for EPA requirements, just go ahead and rip it out. It really is not hard at all. It takes all of 15 minutes. Only one bolt holds the whole assembly in (apart from the valve connections.)

http://www.furyforums.com/forum/fury-diy-area/3488-pair-valve-removal.html
 
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