Honda Fury Forums: banner

1 - 20 of 131 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
AS PROMISED "PAIR VALVE REMOVAL"

For all those wishing to remove the PAIR solenoid and plumbing from your FURY here are a couple of photos of what the REED covers look like and also a picture of the solenoid and its associated air pipes.

The pictures show the bike with the PAIR solenoid removed and the bolts screwed into the REED covers to block them off. I used a 7/16 UNF because I happen to own a set of UNF taps, but any 7/16 thread would do. I have numbered the parts on the photos and labeled them under each photo.

1. FRONT CYLINDER REED COVER.



2. REAR CYLINDER REED COVER.



3. AIR CLEANER BLOCK - SPIKE AIR CLEANER.



4. PAIR SOLENOID & PIPES (Remove all this)



Now you have all seen the pictures get out into the garage and start work.

To remove the solenoid you will have to take the tank off.

1. (2 person job here) Undo the 10mm bolt at the rear base of the tank (presume your seat is already off). Remove the bolt. Lift the rear of the tank up about 2 inches and slide it to the rear about 2 inches. Lift the front of the tank up to access the wires under it. Do not disconnect the fuel lines just the wires to the fuel gauge. Carefully swing the tank around 90 degrees to the left of the bike and have the wife or a mate hold it or better still have something there to sit it on. I wrapped a towel around the base of the tank to stop it rubbing on the frame etc.

2. Remove the chrome covers on top of the cylinder heads and whatever other covers you need to remove from around your air intake to access the PAIR valve which sits between the frame rails above the front of the rear cylinder (hope that makes sense).

3. Disconnect the pipes from the REED housings and the air cleaner. Remove what pipes you can from the PAIR solenoid.

4. Using an 8mm socket on an extension go down from on top of the frame and undo the one bolt holding the PAIR solenoid in place.

5. You should be able to wriggle and manipulate the solenoid out across the top of the injectors, on the way out unclip the electrical plug from the PEAR solenoid, the lead is about 6 inches long. I managed to remove the solenoid with the front cylinder pipe still attached.

6. Now remove each of the REED covers, 2 x 8mm bolts, and either thread and fit the bolts as in the photos (this is a temporary fix until my plates arrive from the USA) or replace them with the Block Off plates that you should have ordered before hand. To keep it simple get the dimpled plates here; BLOCK OFF PLATES

HINT: The rear REED cover is a real pain to replace with the tank bolted in position, best access is through the frame with the 8mm socket and extension so suggest you come prepared with the new plates to save taking the tank off twice.

7. Bung up the hole left in your air cleaner. Too many different possibilities here so you will have to work this out for yourself, there is no pressure on this bung you are just stopping the dust and crap from being sucked into your engine.

8. Cable tie the 6 inch plug from the PEAR solenoid back to the main loom.

9. Put the tank and seat and covers all back on and start your engines.:)

You should be done if you have made it this far, one of the easiest jobs without a great deal of mechanical knowledge required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
Fury_Guy;

Am I correct in my understanding that, at this point, you have not yet installed the Block-Off Plates?

Cheers
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,556 Posts
Thank you Fury Guy; very well done, clear, informative, post. Could you include where you bought Birgly plates and cost. Eliminates backfiring issues. Thanks for your time to help others.:)
6. Now remove each of the REED covers, 2 x 8mm bolts, and either thread and fit the bolts as in the photos (this is a temporary fix until my plates arrive from the USA) or replace them with the Block Off plates that you should have ordered before hand. To keep it simple get the dimpled plates here; BLOCK OFF PLATES
I believe he did:cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,970 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
..........$15.99 a set with a block off plug
I notice they offer a "dimpled" AND an "un-dimpled" version of these plates. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the function of the dimple?

Cheers
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,556 Posts
I notice they offer a "dimpled" AND an "un-dimpled" version of these plates. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the function of the dimple?

Cheers
It is to clear the screw that holds the reed on, it is not a big deal to remove ( most just drill it out) with the dimple you just put the cover on, without the dimple you need to remove the screw and reed, then replace the gasket and reed holder or it wiil leak air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
I believe it is for reed valve clearence, unless I am wrong?:eek:
Gotta be something else; the blank-off plates replace the reed valve!

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
It is to clear the screw that holds the reed on, it is not a big deal to remove ( most just drill it out) with the dimple you just put the cover on, without the dimple you need to remove the screw and reed, then replace the gasket and reed holder or it wiil leak air.
I'm confused (obviously!). Why, if you're removing the PAIR Valve and all the associated plumbing, would you leave the reed assembly in place?

Cheers
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,556 Posts
I'm confused (obviously!). Why, if you're removing the PAIR Valve and all the associated plumbing, would you leave the reed assembly in place?

Cheers
The reed assy has a seal around it, that seal needs to be intact or you will leak air into the motor or oil out.
the reed can be left in there but with no plumbing, it can't pass air into the exhaust. Most just drill the head off the screw, remove the reed and reinstall the holder/seal and put on the block off, the ones with the dimples came along later.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,970 Posts
I'm confused (obviously!). Why, if you're removing the PAIR Valve and all the associated plumbing, would you leave the reed assembly in place?

Cheers
BarFury:
Some of us in California for example may have to put all the stock parts back on in the event they pass this stupid legislation to require a smog check on bikes.
I have kept all components necessary to put the bike back to stock emissions if needed.
I think by not removing the reed assembly it will ease in re-installing the pair valve components.
I'm down with the dimple plate for that reason..:D
T

I see Clueless answered it and I also got a reply back from Larry at vtx-parts.com

"The dimple is for the guys that want to save time and money. The dimple fits over the screw saving time. Saving money comes in for the guys that have smog laws. The simply put the stuff back on and with the reed still in tacked they pass with flying colors. If you buy the other set of covers you have to take the reed apart and buy a new one to pass there smog test."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
The reed assy has a seal around it, that seal needs to be intact or you will leak air into the motor or oil out.........the reed can be left in there but with no plumbing, it can't pass air into the exhaust. Most just drill the head off the screw, remove the reed and reinstall the holder/seal and put on the block off, the ones with the dimples came along later.
Aha!, said the blind man, now I see! Thanks, Clueless. So the reed-frame is left in there simply because the seal is integral to it, is that correct? I mean as opposed to simply chucking the reed-frame and installing a gasket under the block-off plate?

Cheers
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,556 Posts
Aha!, said the blind man, now I see! Thanks, Clueless. So the reed-frame is left in there simply because the seal is integral to it, is that correct? I mean as opposed to simply chucking the reed-frame and installing a gasket under the block-off plate?

Cheers
Yes it is recessed down into the head. I imagine you could cut new gasket material and place it between the plate and the head, but Keep It Simple

Also the best time to do this is when you are checking the valves, some of the pair valving comes off for access, and you already have the tank off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,153 Posts
Yes it is recessed down into the head. I imagine you could cut new gasket material and place it between the plate and the head, but Keep It Simple

Also the best time to do this is when you are checking the valves, some of the pair valving comes off for access, and you already have the tank off.
OK, got the whole picture now; Thanks Clueless.

It seems to me that the most expedient and cost-effective approach to this whole issue would be to simply do as Fury_Guy did: "7/16-UNF TAPPED & SCREWED INTO REED COVER AIR INLET". This would leave the reed block, reed, and cover intact, un-modified, and in place for easy re-installation of the PAIR Valve system if, as Tony_Fury has suggested, it becomes ultimately necessary to pass a smog test at some point. It would also save the expense of the Block-Off plates and, since you can't see the reed covers with the chrome engine covers in place anyway, it's not a question of aesthetics. To re-mount the PAIR Valve system, you would simply remove the two 7/16 bolts and plug-in the PAIR Valve. Am I missing anything?

Cheers
 
1 - 20 of 131 Posts
Top