Anyone read the page in the manual about not using oil with the "Energy Conservation" notation? I did my first oil change at 1000 miles. Want to get this one right so I bought Pennzoil 10W-30, which is what I thought was the recommended oil. I didn't initially see this notice in the manual about not using oil marked as Energy Conservation. Checked the bottle and sure enough what I had just put in there had it. Went back to the store, and the only oil they had without it was 10w-40. So I changed the oil a SECOND time, and THEN noticed another notation that says "Do not use API SH or higher oils". Well, the second oil I used says "API SERVICE SN". Jeeezzzz, do I need to change out the oil again, and what does all this stuff mean?
Proper Oil ???
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Any Synthetic 10w-40 designed for wet clutches/transmissions should be what you want...NOT standard 10w-40 vehicle oil. Not the same beast. Castrol, Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc all make a synthetic (4T) that are designed for this application (there are more as well.). They all state on the label that they are specifically for MC's.
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This is what I use and what Honda would like you to use :toast:
There are better oils out there but you will have to spend more for them
There are better oils out there but you will have to spend more for them
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958 Posts
Yeap same here.. if it says Honda on it and is endorsed by Honda Racing, then its definitely good enough for me and my Red Bull
+1 on the Honda oil. Just put four fresh quarts in today along with a filter from the Honda parts counter. There are lots of options out there, but nothing wrong with the OEM stuff IMO.Yeap same here.. if it says Honda on it and is endorsed by Honda Racing, then its definitely good enough for me and my Red Bull
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Nothing wrong with OEM but I prefer Lucas oils over just about anybody else. Can I prove any difference in any of my vehicles?
Lucas in an ol' pickup w/200k and teaching teens how to drive... motor runs like a dream, no sludge, no anything
Bike had some strange clutch issues, changed over at 2nd refill, no more issues and seems to run cooler
High Performance Motorcycle Oils
Yes it costs more. But for what we are talking about, its really just a couple of bucks.
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Lucas in an ol' pickup w/200k and teaching teens how to drive... motor runs like a dream, no sludge, no anything
Bike had some strange clutch issues, changed over at 2nd refill, no more issues and seems to run cooler
High Performance Motorcycle Oils
Yes it costs more. But for what we are talking about, its really just a couple of bucks.
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2,707 Posts
Hey Whiskey, what were your clutch issues? Feel free to PM me so we don't derail the thread...
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Like many others I just use the Honda oil as it costs no more (at least where I live) than other brands and it's always in stock at my local Honda dealer.
If you're really worried about the oil protecting your engine then just change it more often, say once every 6 months instead of once every 12 months. I know the subject of oil is often a heated discussion but I take the view that the manufacturer of the bike know better than anyone how often to change the oil and what grade of oil to use. Stick the the manufacturers recommendations and you'll be fine.
If you're really worried about the oil protecting your engine then just change it more often, say once every 6 months instead of once every 12 months. I know the subject of oil is often a heated discussion but I take the view that the manufacturer of the bike know better than anyone how often to change the oil and what grade of oil to use. Stick the the manufacturers recommendations and you'll be fine.
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I'm going to try this on my next oil change:
Only service bike has had so far was the 600 mile service at dealership, and I have about 2,500 on it now. Will probably upgrade to full-synthetic Lucas later on. I've always had good UOA results with Lucas oils in everything I ride/drive.
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I use Amsoil.
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I'm going Rotella T6 on my next change here coming up. Probably under half the cost of all of the 4T specific wet clutch oils, Oil analysis's have been great, I use it in my diesel's, dirtbike, and will be used in the Fury. Pretty big over on the VTX forum, meets all of the wet clutch standards, and is hands down a great oil. I've run about every brand of wet clutch specific oil to try it out (4T) so this will be the first go with the T6. Looking forward to the results (I'll pair with the K&N oil filter as well).
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Well I went with best of the best oil and filter , HIFLOfiltro Filter and REDLINE Full Synthetic 10/40 Motorcycle oil . I’ll let you know how she does with it . I really well known High Performance Motorcycle Mechanic here in Charlotte recommended these . Never heard of these filters but some pretty interesting information about them .
http://www.hiflofiltro.com/
http://www.hiflofiltro.com/
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Shell Rotella 5W-40 says it meets the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) MA specification (wet clutch).
Redline 10W40 Motorcycle oil says it meets the JASO MA specification
Redline 0W40 Motorcycle oil says it meets the JASO MA specification, and if you know viscosity you know 0W40 is better during engine starting.
JASO MA Standard
If you read the JASO standard, you can use API SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM, SN as long as it is not "Energy Conserving" as that would put it in a lower friction classification than the clutch needs for positive engagement and shock protection. This matches what the Fury Owner's Manual says on Page 85: API classification SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving on the circular API service label. (This is stated somewhat differently on page 86, but has the same meaning.)
Within the MA specification, MA2 oil is in the higher friction half of the MA standard, and MA1 is the lower friction MA standard (still above MB). You can determine if you light a tighter, grippier clutch (MA2), or looser clutch if shifting is notchy (use MA1).
Shell / Rotella and REDLINE are not registered with JASO.
Honda GN4 is registered with JASO.
343* Pro Honda GN4 10W-40 Honda Motor Co., Ltd. M001HMC274* MA 10W-40
*oil code reference number
Rotella is designed and is marketed by Shell as primarily a Heavy Duty Engine Oil. There is a $500 (40,000 Yen) fee that must be paid to JASO for certifying the testing Shell would need to perform. Shell is saying they examined the JASO MA spec and determined Rotella 10W40 meets the MA (MA2 "grippy clutch" category) requirements while 0W40 does not, but did not submit their testing for certification.
Shell Technical states:
REDLINE, on the other hand, is a notably expensive brand who is marketing a line of oil specifically to motorcyclists. In my opinion if they say they're JASO MA, they ought to say if they're class MA2, MA1, somewhere in the middle of MA (like Honda GN4). What they do say is, "Blended with specific friction modifiers that are compatible with wet-clutches, suitable for JASO MA applications." To me, that says, "We think it's good enough."
Redline 10W40 Motorcycle oil says it meets the JASO MA specification
Redline 0W40 Motorcycle oil says it meets the JASO MA specification, and if you know viscosity you know 0W40 is better during engine starting.
JASO MA Standard
If you read the JASO standard, you can use API SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM, SN as long as it is not "Energy Conserving" as that would put it in a lower friction classification than the clutch needs for positive engagement and shock protection. This matches what the Fury Owner's Manual says on Page 85: API classification SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving on the circular API service label. (This is stated somewhat differently on page 86, but has the same meaning.)
Within the MA specification, MA2 oil is in the higher friction half of the MA standard, and MA1 is the lower friction MA standard (still above MB). You can determine if you light a tighter, grippier clutch (MA2), or looser clutch if shifting is notchy (use MA1).
Shell / Rotella and REDLINE are not registered with JASO.
Honda GN4 is registered with JASO.
343* Pro Honda GN4 10W-40 Honda Motor Co., Ltd. M001HMC274* MA 10W-40
*oil code reference number
Rotella is designed and is marketed by Shell as primarily a Heavy Duty Engine Oil. There is a $500 (40,000 Yen) fee that must be paid to JASO for certifying the testing Shell would need to perform. Shell is saying they examined the JASO MA spec and determined Rotella 10W40 meets the MA (MA2 "grippy clutch" category) requirements while 0W40 does not, but did not submit their testing for certification.
Shell Technical states:
I believe Shell says they "test and warranty" for the certification requirements. So if you use Rotella they claim is JASO MA compliant and your clutch or engine smokes because of it, and it is the fault of the oil, Shell will refund your purchase price--of the oil. With that said, however, Shell wouldn't stake its reputation on a false claim, so it should meet the MA2 spec.
REDLINE, on the other hand, is a notably expensive brand who is marketing a line of oil specifically to motorcyclists. In my opinion if they say they're JASO MA, they ought to say if they're class MA2, MA1, somewhere in the middle of MA (like Honda GN4). What they do say is, "Blended with specific friction modifiers that are compatible with wet-clutches, suitable for JASO MA applications." To me, that says, "We think it's good enough."
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If you really want to know how your oil is doing and see if you are getting your money's worth from high dollar oils send a used oil sample to Blackstone laboratories and don't forget to pay the extra $10 for the TBN report... $38 total... my 2 cents.
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6,425 Posts
If I had to guess, I would bet that the hi flow filters are made by K&N... or vice versa.
Hi flow Part #HF204 or #HF204RC if you want a nut welded to it for easy removal.
K&N Part #KN204-1 with the same nut on the back.
Hi flow appears to be slightly less expensive though... about $9 compared to $12-$13 on Amazon.
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Regarding filters, Thai Yang Kitpaisan Company, LTD in Thailand builds filters to customer specifications since 1955. They've scored contracts with OEM manufacturers and K&N due to low prices and reasonable quality (and low prices). They make the filters for Bike Alert, Inc., who owns the HiFloFiltro brand.
HiFloFiltro is a good product with metal end caps, a good filter element, and overall good construction. It has a nitrile anti drain-back valve gasket which is not great in temperatures below freezing (whereas silicone is), but how many people ride in weather that cold??? (Me.) They are not top-of-the-line.
Low Quality: Fram. They use cardboard end-caps, hot-glued on, for instance.
Middle Quality: HiFloFiltro (made by TYKC), most K&N (often TYKC. some by Champion Labs)
High Quality: AMSoil, Mobil 1, and Royal Purple (generally made by Champion Labs); WIX (WIX, founded by John Wicks and Paul G. Crawshaw, now owned by Affinia Group in Germany)
Germans, they make good stuff:
HiFloFiltro is a good product with metal end caps, a good filter element, and overall good construction. It has a nitrile anti drain-back valve gasket which is not great in temperatures below freezing (whereas silicone is), but how many people ride in weather that cold??? (Me.) They are not top-of-the-line.
Low Quality: Fram. They use cardboard end-caps, hot-glued on, for instance.
Middle Quality: HiFloFiltro (made by TYKC), most K&N (often TYKC. some by Champion Labs)
High Quality: AMSoil, Mobil 1, and Royal Purple (generally made by Champion Labs); WIX (WIX, founded by John Wicks and Paul G. Crawshaw, now owned by Affinia Group in Germany)
Germans, they make good stuff:
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Interesting Read here on REDLINE oil , glad I used it . I can tell you it shifts so much smother than it was before , could be in my head but I’m telling you it even goes too neutral easier . Read some of this .
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=38676
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=259425
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=38676
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=259425
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Glad they put "Metric" on the container so we're not confused and put imperial stuff in there:grin:I use Amsoil.
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