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I know, older post, right.
Question if anyone knows,
What is the difference in Rotella 4T and 6T?
Can either be used for the VT1300 engine?
i am looking at the synthetic. Which version would be better?
Thanks all!!!
 

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I know, older post, right.
Question if anyone knows,
What is the difference in Rotella 4T and 6T?
Can either be used for the VT1300 engine?
i am looking at the synthetic. Which version would be better?
Thanks all!!!
I run the T6 in my car and truck (both diesel), dirtbike, and Fury. It's got the correct JASO rating for wet clutches and is a great oil. Good price on it too!
 
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I ran T6 in my vtx for years, and briefly in the fury. Issue I had with it was I felt like it sheared/fell apart on road trips. The trips would be 1500 or so miles in a week or less I know, diesel oil is made for stuff like that, but I usually can tell when I need an oil change based on how the shifter feels, and after 2000 or 2500 miles, the T6 wouldn't give me silky smooth shifts anymore. I use Amsoil now, and it lasts longer. Honestly with the price difference, you could just use T6 and change it twice as much and break even.
 

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I ran T6 in my vtx for years, and briefly in the fury. Issue I had with it was I felt like it sheared/fell apart on road trips. The trips would be 1500 or so miles in a week or less I know, diesel oil is made for stuff like that, but I usually can tell when I need an oil change based on how the shifter feels, and after 2000 or 2500 miles, the T6 wouldn't give me silky smooth shifts anymore. I use Amsoil now, and it lasts longer. Honestly with the price difference, you could just use T6 and change it twice as much and break even.
Yeah I change my oil WELL before most of the recommended intervals because I always have it on hand. I've run T6 in the diesels forever and sent out tests to Blackstone and they've all come in great, and I do 10k intervals. The Fury oil gets changed out before the end of every riding season, and I don't do nearly the miles you do though. Also I do a lot less than 10k in a riding season!

My bike has always shifted fine I thought, so ya for me definitely not worth the extra $$ unless I'm going for extended intervals on the bike. But it's so easy and quick to do an oil change on these bikes
 
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Yeah I change my oil WELL before most of the recommended intervals because I always have it on hand. I've run T6 in the diesels forever and sent out tests to Blackstone and they've all come in great, and I do 10k intervals. The Fury oil gets changed out before the end of every riding season, and I don't do nearly the miles you do though. Also I do a lot less than 10k in a riding season!

My bike has always shifted fine I thought, so ya for me definitely not worth the extra $$ unless I'm going for extended intervals on the bike. But it's so easy and quick to do an oil change on these bikes
Honestly if that is how you ride and you change it that often, im sure it is 100% fine. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend T6 to anyone to use in their bike.
 

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Shell Rotella 5W-40 says it meets the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) MA specification (wet clutch).

Redline 10W40 Motorcycle oil says it meets the JASO MA specification

Redline 0W40 Motorcycle oil says it meets the JASO MA specification, and if you know viscosity you know 0W40 is better during engine starting.

JASO MA Standard
If you read the JASO standard, you can use API SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM, SN as long as it is not "Energy Conserving" as that would put it in a lower friction classification than the clutch needs for positive engagement and shock protection. This matches what the Fury Owner's Manual says on Page 85: API classification SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving on the circular API service label. (This is stated somewhat differently on page 86, but has the same meaning.)

Within the MA specification, MA2 oil is in the higher friction half of the MA standard, and MA1 is the lower friction MA standard (still above MB). You can determine if you light a tighter, grippier clutch (MA2), or looser clutch if shifting is notchy (use MA1).

Shell / Rotella and REDLINE are not registered with JASO.

Honda GN4 is registered with JASO.
343* Pro Honda GN4 10W-40 Honda Motor Co., Ltd. M001HMC274* MA 10W-40
*oil code reference number


Rotella is designed and is marketed by Shell as primarily a Heavy Duty Engine Oil. There is a $500 (40,000 Yen) fee that must be paid to JASO for certifying the testing Shell would need to perform. Shell is saying they examined the JASO MA spec and determined Rotella 10W40 meets the MA (MA2 "grippy clutch" category) requirements while 0W40 does not, but did not submit their testing for certification.

Shell Technical states:


I believe Shell says they "test and warranty" for the certification requirements. So if you use Rotella they claim is JASO MA compliant and your clutch or engine smokes because of it, and it is the fault of the oil, Shell will refund your purchase price--of the oil. With that said, however, Shell wouldn't stake its reputation on a false claim, so it should meet the MA2 spec.

REDLINE, on the other hand, is a notably expensive brand who is marketing a line of oil specifically to motorcyclists. In my opinion if they say they're JASO MA, they ought to say if they're class MA2, MA1, somewhere in the middle of MA (like Honda GN4). What they do say is, "Blended with specific friction modifiers that are compatible with wet-clutches, suitable for JASO MA applications." To me, that says, "We think it's good enough."
That's all well and good for Shell to make the offer of a refund, however, if it stuffs ya motor while using it, I would want more than a refund on the oil!!
 

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That's all well and good for Shell to make the offer of a refund, however, if it stuffs ya motor while using it, I would want more than a refund on the oil!!
There has been years and years of people running Rotella T6 on this forum, then over a decade plus (maybe 2+) of it's use over on the VTX forum. That's probably thousands of bikes. None of which have failed from T6.

The only problem with T6 is it's in a national shortage and if you can find it prices are upwards of $70/gal.
 

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Some of the most vigorous disagreements I have ever run across on vehicle forums have been 'what is the best oil' discussions...
Thats ANY forum that requires an engine. If you really want to get in the weeds, BobIsTheOilGuy forums will make your head spin.
 

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Some of the most vigorous disagreements I have ever run across on vehicle forums have been 'what is the best oil' discussions...
Thats ANY forum that requires an engine. If you really want to get in the weeds, BobIsTheOilGuy forums will make your head spin.
You guys are right on the money. Probably the second most hotly contested subject would be what fuel is best, with the only point of agreement being that fuel without ethanol is "better" and less damaging to smaller and infrequently used engines such as garden tools and motorcycles.
 

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Thats ANY forum that requires an engine. If you really want to get in the weeds, BobIsTheOilGuy forums will make your head spin.
I've read quite a bit over there, just never joined
 

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Here you go, please view this ONLY if you have oil 🛢 OCD.

You're welcome !





It was too tempting not to watch the video. I was really surprised how differently the two stroke oil performed. Back in the 70s we used regular oil for our two stroke minibikes and trail bikes. We were too busy having fun on those bikes to even notice the extra smoke from regular oil.....
 

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You guys are right on the money. Probably the second most hotly contested subject would be what fuel is best, with the only point of agreement being that fuel without ethanol is "better" and less damaging to smaller and infrequently used engines such as garden tools and motorcycles.
I dunno... second most contested here is which color is faster... Pearl White, clearly being the winner ;):ROFLMAO:
 
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