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Discussion Starter #1
I did my valve lash today. Decided to take off the air filter box to get better access. When I went to put it back on, the 10 mm bolt at the bottom inside broke off while I was trying to tighten it back up. I noticed it was hard to get it out in the first place so I wasn't too concerned about it being tight going back in. It seems like that bolt might be overkill anyway and it it seems fine without it. It looks like it would be easy to get the bracket off and drill out the old bolt but I'm thinking it'll be fine as is. What do you guys think?

On another note, when I put on the rear intake cover, I think I might have stripped the bolt closest to the right side of the bike. I used a torque wrench and set it at 11 pounds. All the other bolts torqued up just fine. It did get tight but never seemed to want to torque to 11 pounds....it did torque to 10 pounds. Do you guys think that will be OK? I did back it out and try again but it did the same thing. Screwed in just fine but just wouldn't torque up to 11 pounds.

Thanks for all the help on here. This forum is great!
Doug
 

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I would get the air cleaner stay off and either get the broken bolt out, or replace the stay and new bolt, the stay is only about 6 bucks. I think it keeps strain off the plastic air cleaner attachment. The cover, should be OK with 10 lbs/ft, I don't use a torque wrench, just snug them up and have not had any troubles. Watch it for oil leaks, and take a good look at it next time you do the valves.
 

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I did my valve lash today. Decided to take off the air filter box to get better access. When I went to put it back on, the 10 mm bolt at the bottom inside broke off while I was trying to tighten it back up. I noticed it was hard to get it out in the first place so I wasn't too concerned about it being tight going back in. It seems like that bolt might be overkill anyway and it it seems fine without it. It looks like it would be easy to get the bracket off and drill out the old bolt but I'm thinking it'll be fine as is. What do you guys think?

On another note, when I put on the rear intake cover, I think I might have stripped the bolt closest to the right side of the bike. I used a torque wrench and set it at 11 pounds. All the other bolts torqued up just fine. It did get tight but never seemed to want to torque to 11 pounds....it did torque to 10 pounds. Do you guys think that will be OK? I did back it out and try again but it did the same thing. Screwed in just fine but just wouldn't torque up to 11 pounds.

Thanks for all the help on here. This forum is great!
Doug
I had the exact same issue when k was doing my pair valve, it was tough loosening it, figured it might just have some thread lock on it and the SOB snapped right off. I just ordered a new oem bracket and bolt from cheap cycle parts, I couldn't drill the damn thing out. A word of warning, that bracket is not easy to get on and off, one of the bolts is damn near impossible to get a wrench or socket on. I had to use two extensions with two swivels to get on it. But I felt like it was necessary, the air box felt loose without it.
 

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I did my valve lash today. Decided to take off the air filter box to get better access. When I went to put it back on, the 10 mm bolt at the bottom inside broke off while I was trying to tighten it back up. I noticed it was hard to get it out in the first place so I wasn't too concerned about it being tight going back in. It seems like that bolt might be overkill anyway and it it seems fine without it. It looks like it would be easy to get the bracket off and drill out the old bolt but I'm thinking it'll be fine as is. What do you guys think?

On another note, when I put on the rear intake cover, I think I might have stripped the bolt closest to the right side of the bike. I used a torque wrench and set it at 11 pounds. All the other bolts torqued up just fine. It did get tight but never seemed to want to torque to 11 pounds....it did torque to 10 pounds. Do you guys think that will be OK? I did back it out and try again but it did the same thing. Screwed in just fine but just wouldn't torque up to 11 pounds.

Thanks for all the help on here. This forum is great!
Doug
Where did 11 ftlb come from? That must be way too much. I think that is just for the exhaust valve cap. I can't find the intake cover bolts specifically in the manual but for standard 6mm SH flange bolts the torque is 7 ftlb . I think the bolt is probably stronger than the cover...if the screw isn't stripped you may have pulled the threads in the head cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where did 11 ftlb come from? That must be way too much. I think that is just for the exhaust valve cap. I can't find the intake cover bolts specifically in the manual but for standard 6mm small head flange bolts the torque is 7 ftlb. I think the bolt is probably stronger than the cover...if the screw isn't stripped you may have pulled the threads in the head cover.
I could have sworn the service manual said 11ftlbs for those covers. I definitely could be wrong. I probably did pull the threads in the head cover. It's still tight so I don't think I'm gonna worry about it. Next time I'll just snug them up. Crap I hate it when things like this happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had the exact same issue when k was doing my pair valve, it was tough loosening it, figured it might just have some thread lock on it and the SOB snapped right off. I just ordered a new oem bracket and bolt from cheap cycle parts, I couldn't drill the damn thing out. A word of warning, that bracket is not easy to get on and off, one of the bolts is damn near impossible to get a wrench or socket on. I had to use two extensions with two swivels to get on it. But I felt like it was necessary, the air box felt loose without it.
Thanks for the help on that. I'll probably do the same thing then. I'll probably ride it as is for a while but fix it asap.
 

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ok what is the benifit of working on the valves? ive seen it said a few times on here...i have around 2300 miles on mine and dont think its been done? is this a serious issue i need to tend to?????
 

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I had the same thing happen to me too. I just drilled it out and retapped it. Didn't have to remove from the bike it to do this.
 

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ok what is the benifit of working on the valves? ive seen it said a few times on here...i have around 2300 miles on mine and dont think its been done? is this a serious issue i need to tend to?????
from VTXcafe.com:
The 1300 does not have self adjusting valves. You should really check them. Listing will tell you if you have a really loose valve. For some reason these valves have a tendency to tighten up which you probably will not hear. The dealer was supose to have done mine at 600 and I did it at 8000. Two of the 6 valves were tight when I did it. If you don't want to pay the stealer, than do it yourself. It really isn't that hard if you have the service manual. I'm assuming you want to keep this bike in great shape. The only way to do that is to do the preventive matainance. Its better to check the valves than to pay for a valve job because you burnt a valve. Good luck
 

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all these bolts are hard coming off.i took a thread chaser and cleaned the bolt and the threaded hole befor i put it back together.used a lock washer instead of threadlock and havent had any problems.
 
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