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Discussion Starter #1
Hoping someone could tell me what size the rear axle nut is? I can't get a socket between the nut and the exhaust so I was going to buy a ratchet wrench, really don't want to remove the exhaust if I don't have too. Tearing down the bike for our short winter and sending pieces to the chromer. Any advise on the easiest way to get the rear wheel off would be appreciated. Tried to get the torque bar off but the bolt is to long and hits the frame? Looks like you have to take the whole dang swing arm off?
 

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32mm,
Lift bike and secure, if you have the stock exhaust it is easier to remove the muffler, not the whole pipe, just the muffler. Remove the nut, then loosen the pinch bolt on the left side. Remove the brake stopper bolt, 8mm allen, I also remove the brake line bracket, push the axle to the left, remove the brake caliper and bracket and set aside, I wrap it in a towel to keep it from scratching anything. Remove axle. Remove the wheel by pulling it to the right and it will drop out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Clueless, I have the Cobra Swepts and loosened the rear bracket but just can't get a socket in there. I'm having the calipers, brackets and wheels chromed anything I should know?
 

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Thanks Clueless, I have the Cobra Swepts and loosened the rear bracket but just can't get a socket in there. I'm having the calipers, brackets and wheels chromed anything I should know?
Axle nut torques at 94 lbs-ft, the brake stopper at 51 lbs-ft, make sure you grease the crap out of the drive flange when you put it back together.The brake disk bolts torque at 3.1 lbs-ft, Honda recommends you replace them with new, I reuse them myself, are you disassembling the wheel yourself ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm handy enough with tools but more of an electronics guy. I'll probably have the local dealer remove the bearings and tires and reinstall after chroming don't want to chip or scratch anything. Question though in the calipers the cylinders that press against the brake pads I'm assuming they have to come out also?
 

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I'm handy enough with tools but more of an electronics guy. I'll probably have the local dealer remove the bearings and tires and reinstall after chroming don't want to chip or scratch anything. Question though in the calipers the cylinders that press against the brake pads I'm assuming they have to come out also?
Yes everything has to come out/off.

Before you remove the caliper from the bike remove the plug and pin (12,13) the pads will fall out. You will need a screwdriver and a 5mm allen. Before you remove the brake line or the bleeder, cover everything up so you do not get brake fluid on the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks again Clueless, I appreciate the info, I really need to break down and by Honda manual $80.00 "man their proud"
 

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One other thing Clueless I replaced my rear signals and added some LED light so the flash rate is fast. Assuming becasue of change in resistance I bought a module that is supposed to be a direct replacement for the OEM but I don't know were it's located?
 

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One other thing Clueless I replaced my rear signals and added some LED light so the flash rate is fast. Assuming becasue of change in resistance I bought a module that is supposed to be a direct replacement for the OEM but I don't know were it's located?
Under the seat, right of the shock,easy to get to when the wheel is off. Not too bad with it on. Take off seat, and fender there it is.
 

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Clueless;

Is it actually neccessary to remove the mufflers in order to remove the rear wheel? I've not had occassion to remove my rear wheel yet, but looking at my bike, it looks as though the wheel can be removed with the mufflers left in place. Or is it just a matter of convenience? Your thoughts Sir.................

Cheers
 

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Clueless;

Is it actually neccessary to remove the mufflers in order to remove the rear wheel? I've not had occassion to remove my rear wheel yet, but looking at my bike, it looks as though the wheel can be removed with the mufflers left in place. Or is it just a matter of convenience? Your thoughts Sir.................

Cheers
It isn't necessary, just easier, and less chance of damage/scratches to swingarm. You can use a 32mm combination wrench to remove the nut, breaking the brake stopped bolt loose is a pain with a little allen also. (51 lbs-ft of torque and locktite) When I had my stock pipes on it was just alot easier to get the muffler out of the way and use a ratchet and sockets. The stock muffler comes off by removing/loosening 4 bolts and wiggling it off.
 

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It isn't necessary, just easier, and less chance of damage/scratches to swingarm.
Ya, thought that might be the case. Thanks for the clarification, Clueless; you be da go-to man.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Cypress ,just picked up the manual on eBay I'm sure it will come in handy but nothing is better than getting it first hand from someone with experience thanks again Clueless
 

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Thanks Cypress ,just picked up the manual on eBay I'm sure it will come in handy but nothing is better than getting it first hand from someone with experience thanks again Clueless
BAM! First move, ask a Pro. Second move, buy the manual.
You're off to a great start.

btw, had the whole bike stripped down this past weekend. didn't have to remove the pipes--

Do take Clue's advice and re-lube wherever the manual tells you too. much easier at this stage.
 
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