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Hello fellow fury fans,
I just fogged my engine and found that when i tightened my plugs, one of them felt quite soft and didn’t seem to want to stop turning like the others when i followed the information in the owner’s manual (1/8 turn after bottoming). So i checked the service manual and it says to torque to 13 ft-lbs. when i checked the torque again with my wrench, i clicked immediately indicating i was likely over torqued (or bang on but i doubt that lol).
I decided to replace my plugs in case they were damaged. But i found conflicting information between the owner’s manual and the service manual. The owner’s manual says to do it in 2 steps (tighten 3/4 turn after seating, then loosen and re tighten 1/8 after seating) so maybe 3 steps lol.
The service manual says nothing of this but specifies the torque of 13 ft-lbs.
When replacing my plugs, the one in question still felt soft but torqued to 13 no problem. However, i found That to get to 13 ft lbs, it took about 1 to 1-1/4 turn instead of the prescribed 3/4 turn for ngk’s of the owner’s manual. And the service manual mentioned nothing of loosening and re tightening.
i figured that the service manual was the way to go so i did just that (13 ft-lbs).
Any thoughts on this? What about the one that felt soft?
Thanks!
 

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Hello fellow fury fans,
I just fogged my engine and found that when i tightened my plugs, one of them felt quite soft and didn’t seem to want to stop turning like the others when i followed the information in the owner’s manual (1/8 turn after bottoming). So i checked the service manual and it says to torque to 13 ft-lbs. when i checked the torque again with my wrench, i clicked immediately indicating i was likely over torqued (or bang on but i doubt that lol).
I decided to replace my plugs in case they were damaged. But i found conflicting information between the owner’s manual and the service manual. The owner’s manual says to do it in 2 steps (tighten 3/4 turn after seating, then loosen and re tighten 1/8 after seating) so maybe 3 steps lol.
The service manual says nothing of this but specifies the torque of 13 ft-lbs.
When replacing my plugs, the one in question still felt soft but torqued to 13 no problem. However, i found That to get to 13 ft lbs, it took about 1 to 1-1/4 turn instead of the prescribed 3/4 turn for ngk’s of the owner’s manual. And the service manual mentioned nothing of loosening and re tightening.
i figured that the service manual was the way to go so i did just that (13 ft-lbs).
Any thoughts on this? What about the one that felt soft?
Thanks!
May things could contribute to the "feel" of the spark plug. Is there any anti-seize coating on those threads and not the other? Is there a burr on any of the threads? Any type of lubricant on the mating faces? Etc etc.

Honestly, you have the FSM. I would go by that and call it a day. None of the Honda dealerships would follow the owners manual. They all use the FSM. I've never heard of the method of seating, then backing off, and re-seating again on spark plugs. Stuff like that is usually reserved for bearing preload.
 

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The "feel" could be some of your fogging oil misted the plug threads and is causing an over-torque of your plug. Torque values are "dry with friction," so if you decrease the friction you over-seat the plug.

The Fury Owner's Manual page 113 specifies the procedure to use when one doesn't have a torque wrench:
11. Tighten each spark plug:
  • If the old plug is good:1/8 turn after it seats.
  • If installing a new plug, tighten it twice to prevent loosening:
  1. First, tighten the plug:
    NGK:turn after it seats.
    DENSO:turn after it seats.
  2. Then loosen the plug.
  3. Next, tighten the plug again:1/8 turn after it seats.
If you have a torque wrench you're able to torque to the proper specification in one shot.

Torque (on the left):
238793


Tool for applying desired torque:
238794
 

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Discussion Starter #5
May things could contribute to the "feel" of the spark plug. Is there any anti-seize coating on those threads and not the other? Is there a burr on any of the threads? Any type of lubricant on the mating faces? Etc etc.

Honestly, you have the FSM. I would go by that and call it a day. None of the Honda dealerships would follow the owners manual. They all use the FSM. I've never heard of the method of seating, then backing off, and re-seating again on spark plugs. Stuff like that is usually reserved for bearing preload.
Thanks for the reply. I didn’t notice an burrs but there is a little oily substance on the threads. From what i read, it seems that It could be a mixture of unburned fuel and other things. But that is apparent on all the plugs and threads. I didn’t see any burrs on any of the threads.
I figured the FSM was the best bet, so i did go with that. But thanks for confirming.
 
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