[crf325]

I just recently installed my raw design reaper tips. I removed baffles because I wanted more bark. The bike runs great and no problems except on deceleration. If I down shift and let off throttle the bike will crackle, pop or whatever you wish to call it. I have been told to elimanate the pair valve or plug it off. Any ideas? My local honda dealer told me that, they said I elimanated the back pressure. Any thoughts would be helpfull.

 

[Bike69]

I hope I have understood correctly!? If you close the throttle, it pops?

It is very dangerous for the engine if you drive with a fully open pipes.
Your Honda dealer is right: back pressure is eliminated. This results in power loss!
In the worst case, the engine valves are damaged.

The exhaust manufacturer has something in mind to install a baffle plate.

 

[RedspawnSilver]

Also, on top of what bike69 said, go get yourself a fuel controller after you check if your valves are okay, most likely they are, the 1300 is pretty bullet proof... I rode with mine slightly barking at me (with baffles in though) for about 6 months, before I got the air cleaner and fuel controller, but... that is again, cause I had the baffles in.

In summation, if you take the baffles out, you need a fuel controller...

 

[Clueless]

http://www.myvtx1300.com/
Shows how to remove the pair, same as the Fury except the Fury has an electrical valve, the 1300 has a vacuum valve. MRVTX on the VTXOA board sells the block off plates for $18 shipped, I just put a set on my Fury, before that I just had abolt JB welded in the stock hose nipples.

 

[Snuffdog76]

I have NO baffles in my cobra pipes and do have an intake and powercommander installed. The only way mine makes loud crackles and pops (backfires) is if I am near redline in like first gear and close the throttle and make the engine slow the bike down (which I don't do)

 

[crf325]

The mechanic at the dealer didn't say It was gona cause engine damage. I asked him specifically that. He did tell me to get a fuel controller even if I was to leave stock muffler on. He told me the fury is very lean from the factory and that fuel controller would help. The only time it makes any type of popping is when I down shift and use engine to slow me down. Other wise it is fine. I rode it around all day today, half the day with baffles and half with out. No noticable lose in power. Or power difference at all. Just read alot about pair system on the forums here and people have said to plug off or elimanate to get rid of that deceleration pop. And just for reference I am a car technician have been since 93 which is when I got out of school. And have raced motocross for 17 yrs at a pro level so when it comes to engines and tuning I really can tell whether or not it is not rite. The EFI on the fury is what I would really like to know how it works,,,etc. and how the fuel mixture is controlled. Thanx again to all that have answered

 

[RedspawnSilver]

The mechanic at the dealer didn't say It was gona cause engine damage. I asked him specifically that. He did tell me to get a fuel controller even if I was to leave stock muffler on. He told me the fury is very lean from the factory and that fuel controller would help. The only time it makes any type of popping is when I down shift and use engine to slow me down. Other wise it is fine. I rode it around all day today, half the day with baffles and half with out. No noticable lose in power. Or power difference at all. Just read alot about pair system on the forums here and people have said to plug off or elimanate to get rid of that deceleration pop. And just for reference I am a car technician have been since 93 which is when I got out of school. And have raced motocross for 17 yrs at a pro level so when it comes to engines and tuning I really can tell whether or not it is not rite. The EFI on the fury is what I would really like to know how it works,,,etc. and how the fuel mixture is controlled. Thanx again to all that have answered

Yea... Noticed it popping even with the stock pipes on.. can attest to it being lean... Glad you have it figured out tho bro! Helps everybody else with this problem as well! Try out Fuggin's, it's plug and play and is pretty easy to figure out as long as you can read a mini manual...

 

[CB Fury]

You may want to check into the power cones that Mortons Customs offers. They are $30 for a set and they are suppose to control the back pressure... not sure if they will fit in your pipe opening but it cant be to much of a difference when it comes to the inside diameter of the pipes being used. I have not ordered my set yet but will be shortly. Someone else out here might be able to let you know if they really work or not and if they can be used in other pipes. Just a thought. Cheers

 

[mental]

I recently read an article on back pressure; not really major issue on street bikes with new EFI, but running rich or lean still is because of mods ,that is why you did not notice difference in power curve with baffels in or out. Popping will cook and stress valves. The electronic fuel management module on bike has a small range of correctiveness there for you must pair or get a FC if you mod. I believe optimum is 14.7:1 if I remember correctly, except under decel or accel then it should change to around 12.5/7:1-----16.5/7:1 for optimum performance for set up. Pair might be warranty issue along with pipe mods or FC.s From what I have read I like the new PC5.

ADD; See thread, exhaust back pressure; 3/30/10, post 2 by tony fury.