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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If you suspect your speedometer is inaccurate keep reading. If not you can ignore this thread.

I have found that when I travel what I think is the speed limit; I am being passed on a regular basis with not so friendly gestures by some as they overtake me. This problem may be limited to me, as I have not seen anyone else on the forum complaining.

While I suspected a problem, I didn’t know for sure until I travelled with my Garmin Zumo 550 GPS. My speedometer at 100kmh (66mph) was reading approximately 8kmh (5mph) faster than my actual road speed as verified by the GPS. While this may be fairly minor, it was also adding mileage to the bike faster, giving inaccurate fuel consumption measurements and generally was irritating.

Apparently, manufacturers are allowed a variance of up to 10% for speedometer readings. Research showed that inaccurate readings are not uncommon as many things can affect this, such as over or undersize tires, changing sprockets on chain drives as well as inaccuracy of the speedometer. Personally I think the manufactures have the technology to insure the speedo is accurate. My conspiracy theory is that the manufacturer makes them read slow under the auspice of safety when actually it is part of planned obsolecense as the miles rack up faster when the reading is slow.

A few devices exist to correct the problem and also prove useful for correcting speedometers that are out due to sprocket and tire size changes.

So the two products I reviewed were:
Speedohealer by Healtech Electronics - HealTech Electronics Ltd. - Makers of the SpeedoHealer, GIpro, X-TRE, FI Tuner Pro, Brake Light Pro, MM5, OBD Tool
SpeedoDRD by 12 OClock Labs - SpeedoDRD

I wanted a plug and play solution as I did not want to cut any wires. I was leaning to the Speedohealer but fitment on their website indicated the Fury model was the universal harness kit model SH-U01 which required splicing.

My brother in law corrected his VTX1300 with the version from 12 OClock Labs which was plug and play. Unfortunately the VTX version is not compatible with our VT1300's. I contacted 12 OClock Labs via e-mail inquiring as to a model for the Fury and I received a very helpful response from a gentleman named Brooks. He said if I provided photographs of the speed sensor plug he would produce one. After taking the photos and getting some wiring help from Clueless (never underestimate his helpfulness and knowledge!), Brooks had the info he required and advised that the model specific to the Fury is the H5. Another plus is the price advantage with the SpeedoDRD costing $80 vs $117 for the Speedohealer.

I was impressed with the service, price and upon receiving the unit, installation and programming was also a snap. The speed or VS Sensor is located in front of the rear tire just above the swing arm in front of the right side rubber flap (photo attached). Once you find it, you simply unplug it, install the SpeedoDRP in between the plugs, route the programming wire to a convenient location (I put it by the battery under the left cover) and finally complete the programming. This YouTube video also helped simplify the programming.

I programmed a minus 7.6% and now my speedometer matches my GPS precisely. So if you want to correct your speedometer, I highly recommend 12OClock Labs and the SpeedoDRD.
 

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TYVM.
This is very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had the same issue with the Metzeler and the OEM Dunlop. If memory serves, it may have been a touch worse with the Metzelers because I thought I was almost 10% out. Although that may have been when the Metzelers were at the tread wear indicators.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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After changing my faceplate I figured it would need to have it calibrated since my mileage was off from the factory already. After plugging it in and your finished, you leave it installed? Or is it removed? I think I have to go with this. Thanks this is a big help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After changing my faceplate I figured it would need to have it calibrated since my mileage was off from the factory already. After plugging it in and your finished, you leave it installed? Or is it removed? I think I have to go with this. Thanks this is a big help!
Yes - once the programming is done you leave the device installed. You'll want to get some nylon zip ties to tie up the wires nicely. I routed the wire to the programming button to under the left cover just in front of the battery.

I am very pleased with my newly accurate speedometer.
 

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If you suspect your speedometer is inaccurate keep reading. If not you can ignore this thread.



I have found that when I travel what I think is the speed limit; I am being passed on a regular basis with not so friendly gestures by some as they overtake me. This problem may be limited to me, as I have not seen anyone else on the forum complaining.



While I suspected a problem, I didn’t know for sure until I travelled with my Garmin Zumo 550 GPS. My speedometer at 100kmh (66mph) was reading approximately 8kmh (5mph) faster than my actual road speed as verified by the GPS. While this may be fairly minor, it was also adding mileage to the bike faster, giving inaccurate fuel consumption measurements and generally was irritating.



Apparently, manufacturers are allowed a variance of up to 10% for speedometer readings. Research showed that inaccurate readings are not uncommon as many things can affect this, such as over or undersize tires, changing sprockets on chain drives as well as inaccuracy of the speedometer. Personally I think the manufactures have the technology to insure the speedo is accurate. My conspiracy theory is that the manufacturer makes them read slow under the auspice of safety when actually it is part of planned obsolecense as the miles rack up faster when the reading is slow.



A few devices exist to correct the problem and also prove useful for correcting speedometers that are out due to sprocket and tire size changes.



So the two products I reviewed were:

Speedohealer by Healtech Electronics - HealTech Electronics Ltd. - Makers of the SpeedoHealer, GIpro, X-TRE, FI Tuner Pro, Brake Light Pro, MM5, OBD Tool

SpeedoDRD by 12 OClock Labs - SpeedoDRD



I wanted a plug and play solution as I did not want to cut any wires. I was leaning to the Speedohealer but fitment on their website indicated the Fury model was the universal harness kit model SH-U01 which required splicing.



My brother in law corrected his VTX1300 with the version from 12 OClock Labs which was plug and play. Unfortunately the VTX version is not compatible with our VT1300's. I contacted 12 OClock Labs via e-mail inquiring as to a model for the Fury and I received a very helpful response from a gentleman named Brooks. He said if I provided photographs of the speed sensor plug he would produce one. After taking the photos and getting some wiring help from Clueless (never underestimate his helpfulness and knowledge!), Brooks had the info he required and advised that the model specific to the Fury is the H5. Another plus is the price advantage with the SpeedoDRD costing $80 vs $117 for the Speedohealer.



I was impressed with the service, price and upon receiving the unit, installation and programming was also a snap. The speed or VS Sensor is located in front of the rear tire just above the swing arm in front of the right side rubber flap (photo attached). Once you find it, you simply unplug it, install the SpeedoDRP in between the plugs, route the programming wire to a convenient location (I put it by the battery under the left cover) and finally complete the programming. This YouTube video also helped simplify the programming. SpeedoDRD v3M Setup Demo - YouTube



I programmed a minus 7.6% and now my speedometer matches my GPS precisely. So if you want to correct your speedometer, I highly recommend 12OClock Labs and the SpeedoDRD.


Your description of where the vs sensors seems so simple yet I am told that the motor needs to be pulled to get at it. Do you have any picture of how to get at it going in from the rear as you describe?




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Great! This should be in the FAQ section.
 

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Your description of where the vs sensors seems so simple yet I am told that the motor needs to be pulled to get at it. Do you have any picture of how to get at it going in from the rear as you describe?
Ted is referring to the harness connector for the speed sensor, not the speed sensor itself.

For reference you can see the rear brake hydraulic line clamp on the swing arm at bottom right of the photo.
 

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Great info as i too think my speedo reads about 10% faster than what i'm actually going. I need to confirm with gps but if true will definatley look at this solution

Thx, it was driving me crazy,sticking to speed limit or plus 5 and people still giving me dirty looks
 

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Ted is referring to the harness connector for the speed sensor, not the speed sensor itself.

For reference you can see the rear brake hydraulic line clamp on the swing arm at bottom right of the photo.

SG,

not sure what you are pointing out for me....is this where the vs sensor is? I need to change mine but not willing to pay to pull the engine.


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I was thinking about this, but wouldn't it be a lot cheaper to make a note of where the needle sits at various speeds and then get a fancy looking custom faceplete made with the speed marks rotated proportionally to match?


If somebody can supply me with a 1:1 Vector or Bitmap file (or scanned image in 1:1), I could produce a number of new vector and bitmap files with speed index marks shifted in 1% steps up to 10% to take account of the speed errors that are reported to be up to 8% or more on our Furys. A check image with shifted graduations that I'll produce can then be printed onto clear OHP film, temporary overlayed onto the speedometer housing glass from the outside and a check run against a gps be performed to see the bike's individual error (must be a straight stretch of road). The corresponding image file can then be sent to your favorite faceplate maker to produce a new faceplate with shifted mileage markers and your choice of graphics.

Cheers,
Pickel
 

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If some have an reading that is constantly optimistic rather than increasing with speed just disassemble the case and twist the needle against the zero stop to compensate. Worked on mine ;).

SG, not sure what you are pointing out for me....is this where the vs sensor is? I need to change mine but not willing to pay to pull the engine.
This thread isn't about the speedo not working but rather where to tap into a working speed sensor.
 

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If some have an reading that is constantly optimistic rather than increasing with speed just disassemble the case and twist the needle against the zero stop to compensate. Worked on mine ;).

This is exactly what I did when I changed out my face plate. Moved it three times before it matched my GPS speed. She's dead on now!:D
 

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If some have an reading that is constantly optimistic rather than increasing with speed just disassemble the case and twist the needle against the zero stop to compensate. Worked on mine ;).

This thread isn't about the speedo not working but rather where to tap into a working speed sensor.
gotcha - you are right
 

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Didn't know you could do that but twisting the needle on the shaft would be by far the most economical way (if you can do it without bending the needle). I will still attempt to produce the OHP overlay mask in order to mark the amount of deviation on a test run. This should aid in indicating the amount of needle rotation required.

Cheers,
Pickel
 
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