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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just finished replacing my stock faceplate with one I got from Webslinger. Took about 30 min total, most of this is in shop manual pg 21-12
tools:
5mm allen (the L type not tee handled)
small phillips and #2 phillips screwdrivers
small flat blade screwdriver
kitchen fork

1. Cover the tank with a towel
2. If you have the Honda windscreen, remove it (can be worked around, but easier w/o)
3. Remove 2 allen head screws from lower cover, and remove 2 small plastic clips they are the pull type( I used the small flat blade for this pried on the center post), if the middle part comes out don't worry they go right back in, the black lower cover then comes off.
4. Remove the allen screw and remove the front cover.
5. Remove 4 phillips and washers and and pull speedometer up off mount. (there are plastic post the screws go into that are mounted thru grommets to the handlebars)
6. Pull back rubber boot and unplug cable. Now you can take the speedometer to a bench, set it upside down on a towel.
7. Remove 2 outermost screws and remove the chrome and set aside.
8. Remove 5 screws from back, around edge and 1 in center, and the rear cover will lift off. Remove the circuit assy from the top piece, I set it back in the rear cover to protect it while I worked on the face. Do not touch the inside of the clear face.
9. Use the fork under the needle to work the needle off, pulling up and wiggling worked for me, if the needle comes of and leaves the black part and post behind, don't worry it snaps back on, the black part and the "post" have to come off (using the fork) to get the stock face off and new on.
10. Use a good screwdriver for this as the little screws were tight, Remove the 2 screws holding the face on and install the new, replace screws.
11. Replace the needle NOTE I reassembled the whole thing and put it back on the bike, when I turned it on the needle moved in the self test like it should, then went to about -10 mph. I took it apart again, plugged the speedometer back in THEN I put the needle back in at the right point, turned it off and on, and all was good.
12. Reassemble in reverse order, post a pic to show us what you got.

Oh and you will loose your trip odometer miles and clock (have to reset it) when you unplug the speedometer.
 

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Thanks for the info. Any chance you can post up some scans of the two pages in the shop manual that cover it?
 

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my scanner crapped out, or I would..

Clueless:
Did you happened to notice the 7 x LED's ?
I'm thinking since it's apart, I may run to Radio Shack and get different color LED's and replace them. Blue or White..:)
I haven't opened mine yet, still waiting on the mail..
 

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The different color LEDs have different brightness all else being equal and illumination quality differs with color. Worth testing in the dark before soldering them onto the circuit board.
Oh wise Yoda.. thanks.. I will test to see the brightness prior to replacing them all..:)
 

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Oh wise Yoda.. thanks.. I will test to see the brightness prior to replacing them all..:)
Ohhh, blue would go good with my color scheme... let me know how it works out if you use blue :p
 

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Discussion Starter #9
my scanner crapped out, or I would..

Clueless:
Did you happened to notice the 7 x LED's ?
I'm thinking since it's apart, I may run to Radio Shack and get different color LED's and replace them. Blue or White..:)
I haven't opened mine yet, still waiting on the mail..
Didn't think to look, I would think white would be way too bright at night unless you get a pretty dark face.. Some of the VTX guys went in and colored the LEDs with Sharpies to dim down the bright lights. The speedometer comes only as a complete unit so be careful with the soldering iron.
 

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If the color swap may be out of your comfort zone, a colored tint may be a next step. I used it in the past to change my green color to blue :D
 

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If the color swap may be out of your comfort zone, a colored tint may be a next step. I used it in the past to change my green color to blue :D
Curious of how u did that... did you add black tint? as blue is a primary color...
 

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Just finished replacing my stock faceplate with one I got from Webslinger. Took about 30 min total, most of this is in shop manual pg 21-12
tools:
5mm allen (the L type not tee handled)
small phillips and #2 phillips screwdrivers
small flat blade screwdriver
kitchen fork

1. Cover the tank with a towel
2. If you have the Honda windscreen, remove it (can be worked around, but easier w/o)
3. Remove 2 allen head screws from lower cover, and remove 2 small plastic clips they are the pull type( I used the small flat blade for this pried on the center post), if the middle part comes out don't worry they go right back in, the black lower cover then comes off.
4. Remove the allen screw and remove the front cover.
5. Remove 4 phillips and washers and and pull speedometer up off mount. (there are plastic post the screws go into that are mounted thru grommets to the handlebars)
6. Pull back rubber boot and unplug cable. Now you can take the speedometer to a bench, set it upside down on a towel.
7. Remove 2 outermost screws and remove the chrome and set aside.
8. Remove 5 screws from back, around edge and 1 in center, and the rear cover will lift off. Remove the circuit assy from the top piece, I set it back in the rear cover to protect it while I worked on the face. Do not touch the inside of the clear face.
9. Use the fork under the needle to work the needle off, pulling up and wiggling worked for me, if the needle comes of and leaves the black part and post behind, don't worry it snaps back on, the black part and the "post" have to come off (using the fork) to get the stock face off and new on.
10. Use a good screwdriver for this as the little screws were tight, Remove the 2 screws holding the face on and install the new, replace screws.
11. Replace the needle NOTE I reassembled the whole thing and put it back on the bike, when I turned it on the needle moved in the self test like it should, then went to about -10 mph. I took it apart again, plugged the speedometer back in THEN I put the needle back in at the right point, turned it off and on, and all was good.
12. Reassemble in reverse order, post a pic to show us what you got.

Oh and you will loose your trip odometer miles and clock (have to reset it) when you unplug the speedometer.

Clueless:
Great procedure.. worked like a champ..
Took about a hour with the wind shield removal.
The LED's are flat LED's under the plastic case and a lot of work to replace individually. (That is if you can find the correct model)

I took you response on step 11 and replaced the needle before reassembly of the gauge and was able to sync (plugged back in with key on) the needle with 0 MPH on the bike. (Be cautious with the exposed electronics when temporary resetting the needle) I used a towel over the metal speedo bracket.

On step 9, the fork popped the needle off the black part and it would not simply snap back on. I used Gorilla glue to put the needle back on. (Didn't want road vibration knocking it off later)
On step 11, I would recommend bent needle nose plies (45 degree) to get under the black round part in lieu of the fork. Try to remove the black part with the needle.

Looks great, brighter than stock at night.

Some pic's
View attachment 1209 View attachment 1210 View attachment 1211 View attachment 1212
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks good Tony, my needle just popped back on and hasn't come off in about 300 miles but a small dab of glue is a good idea. I would have preferred it not to come off at all, getting something under there to pry on the black part would be better.
 

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Note to everyone considering one of these speedo faceplate's:

The speedometer really glows bright at night time. There are two flat LED's that seem to be very bright. These faceplate's are not made like the factory cover is. The factory faceplate is denser material and made in layers to allow for the numbers to illuminate and backlit.
So the picture you see with the bright glow is what you can anticipate at night time.
Don't get me wrong, I'm happy with the faceplate I just wanted everyone to know.
I would suggest testing it out before final assembly.
This way the two brighter LED's may be darkened out some if you need.
I'm considering taking mine back off to darken the two bright LED's.
View attachment 1226 View attachment 1227

This one shows one of the bright LED's. Both are more prevalent at night time.

View attachment 1228
 

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Update:
I've been searching the web and called several LED manufacturers looking for the flat surface mount Blue LED's.
Blue LED's are available but the particular flat surface mount installed on the speedometer is not a common one. (of course)

I found one close to it, 3.2mm x 2.4mm x 2.4mm (Dome Lens).
Talking with one manufacturer they said they would be concerned about a replacements drawing too much current.
They could possibly damage the power regulator on the circuit board without knowing the LED current rating and resistance.
I also have a couple non-surface mount that has a real low current draw.
I have a couple different ones to test with and will let everyone know the outcome. :D
 

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No go on the LED replacement. :(
I could not get the LCD display removed to get to the circuit board with the LED's. It would require too much heat to dislodge the multiple pins. The heat concern could damage the circuit board or the LCD display.
I wasn't about to damage the speedo and have to buy another one.
So to than end, I was able to darken the speedo faceplate material to not be so bright at night.
 

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Do not mind the red LED just wish it was not so bright. Any ideas on darkening would be appreciated.
 

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Do not mind the red LED just wish it was not so bright. Any ideas on darkening would be appreciated.
I ended up applying masking tape to the back of the webslinger faceplate. I used two strip of black electrical tape over the two bright LED's position on the plastic cover.
The point I was trying to make is, you cannot remove the plastic cover over the circuit board with the LED's mounted to it.
The LCD displayed is secured in such a way you cannot remove the circuit board cover. So trying to darken the LED's with a sharpie is impossible unless you can de-solder the LCD display from the circuit board in order to remove the cover.:(
 
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