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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For anyone out there who purchases a custom Honda Fury faceplate from Low & Mean or Webslinger, Low & Mean has an awesome how-to video.

I only want to add this caveat ...

When you are using the fork & cardboard method to pry the speedometer needle up and out, do NOT extend the fork beyond the center point of the needle.

You want the tips of the fork prongs to press on the underlying frame of the speedo needle and NOT on the needle body:


If you push the fork completely under this whole assembly, the pressure is now on the gray body of the needle and not the underlying black frame ... you will pop the needle body off the frame ...

... just like I did this morning. :rolleyes:

Now, I was then able to remove the stem & frame intact and then use an ultra-light glue to re-attach the needle back on to the frame.

But again, use the points of the fork prongs to press up underneath on the frame so you don't need to re-attach anything.

ALSO

Don't re-seat the needle completely back in UNTIL ZEROING/CALIBRATION is proper. Otherwise, you're gonna spend more time prying that needle out than you want.

AND

Don't put the cover on and keep your hands clear of the needle when you plug back in the connector.
If you're way off and the cover's in place, it could possible snap the needle - I don't know and don't want to find out how much force that motor would put on driving that needle past resistance.

SAVE A HASSLE

You can simulate the calibration/zeroing in your hand before plugging it in.
Just slowly turn the needle to about 50mph and then back 'til it stops/locks.

-- done --
 

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Thanks for the update, I am installing mine today, perfect timing
 

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Nice heads up and pics bro, but...

Meh... I just broke that center needle off, then super glued it back in. Now I can remove it with must my hand as it is in there good :D, oh: I have changed my speedo out about 3 times now and it is easier than the first time using the damn fork method.... Lol, sometimes it's just easier to break it and get it over with... JMO of course.

Oh, anybody that accidentally breaks theirs off, let the super glue completely dry for a day first, otherwise you'll get a little residue on the clear plastic that covers the speedo from the evaporating mist that comes from the glue as it hardens...
 

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Excellent! Now you can post the steps to mod that key knob ... 'cause that's coming here in the mail today, too ;)
It is so easy you won't need any.

1. Cut off the black plastic from the OEM key

2. Grind/cut the sides of the key to fit in the slot on back side of the key cover
*leave the top flat part alone so it sits flush in the slot and is at a right angle to the cover. Otherwise you will have a crooked cover.

3. (something I thought of after I did mine) might want to drill a hole in the top of key that will be inserted into key cover, doesn't matter what size, just thought it would give more area for epoxy or jb weld to adhere through.

4. Use a strong epoxy or jb weld and glue into the slot and let dry.

I was so into getting it done, I didn't think of taking pics as a step by step, but it really is very simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is so easy you won't need any.
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Thanks. Just wanted some heads-up on how you fastened yours.

I might drill a hole in the underside (thru the knurl) and tap the hole so I can put in a recessed allen screw to secure the key for sure.

Just not sure I have the proper drill a/o bit to drill thru that beast of a knob.
 

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Thanks. Just wanted some heads-up on how you fastened yours.

I might drill a hole in the underside (thru the knurl) and tap the hole so I can put in a recessed allen screw to secure the key for sure.

Just not sure I have the proper drill a/o bit to drill thru that beast of a knob.
Did you get the same one I did ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice heads up and pics bro, but...
Here's a question for ya, RSS: Since the stem is not keyed to the hole when you put it back in ... does the "zeroing" of the speedometer work based on the electronics detecting the balance of that needle?

I have no idea where the needle was pointing when I extracted the frame & stem ... 'cause the needle was popped of the damn frame :rolleyes:

Did you get the same one I did ?
I did originally, but then I wanted to be a little more original ;)
So, I went with this one:


It was confirmed that it's just the photo that makes it look yellowish ... it's just as shiny as the one you got. Plus, staring at it will make people dizzy :p
 

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Here's a question for ya, RSS: Since the stem is not keyed to the hole when you put it back in ... does the "zeroing" of the speedometer work based on the electronics detecting the balance of that needle?

I have no idea where the needle was pointing when I extracted the frame & stem ... 'cause the needle was popped of the damn frame :rolleyes:
Yes, the speedometer works off of an electromagnet in the assembly, so it will automatically try to pull the needle to what it "thinks" is the starting position.

If I understand your question correctly, just hook the whole speedometer housing back up to the wiring, then turn on the battery, using the key. The speedometer will try to 0 out and probably end up in a weird position, grab the needle take it out and place it at 0. Turn off the key and turn it back on to find out if you zero'd it out... basically, you are calibrating the needle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yes, the speedometer works off of an electromagnet in the assembly, so it will automatically try to pull the needle to what it "thinks" is the starting position.

If I understand your question correctly, just hook the whole speedometer housing back up to the wiring, then turn on the battery, using the key. The speedometer will try to 0 out and probably end up in a weird position, grab the needle take it out and place it at 0. Turn off the key and turn it back on to find out if you zero'd it out... basically, you are calibrating the needle.
Yep - my concern it getting it in there wrong - off kilter - and then breaking the needle trying to get it out, again :eek:

(removed comment about no key - you do need to turn it on)
 

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Yep - my concern it getting it in there wrong - off kilter - and then breaking the needle trying to get it out, again :eek:
Curious - can you buy replacement needle or do you have to buy the whole thing ?
 

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Must be ironic timing, I just did this with my speedo needle Sunday night. Fork popped the sucker clean off the base. Luckily I had a little model cement handy, glued that sucker back on with just a little cement and it seems good.

Wish you'd posted this last weekend!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Updated instructions with ALSO section.

ALSO

Don't re-seat the needle completely back in UNTIL ZEROING/CALIBRATION is proper. Otherwise, you're gonna spend more time prying that needle out than you want.
 

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(removed comment about no key - you do need to turn it on)
Ah, it's been a few months since I had done it and couldn't remember if you needed the key in or not...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Must be ironic timing, I just did this with my speedo needle Sunday night. Fork popped the sucker clean off the base. Luckily I had a little model cement handy, glued that sucker back on with just a little cement and it seems good.

Wish you'd posted this last weekend!
And thank you very much for posting your how-to :rolleyes:

:p;):p;):p
 
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