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With Android 9 Pie just hold down the power button for a popup bubble and select Screenshot (Pixel 3).

OK Paul, what's taking so long ? ? ?
I just arrived at the house! Give me a few minutes!
 

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Galaxay S8+: Palm swipe w/little finger edge of hand!
Thanx Hillzz.

Ok,
I don't know what this all means, I just íntalled it and turned phone holder to portrait mode.
I'll take more screenshots when on the road.
 

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Galaxay S8+: Palm swipe w/little finger edge of hand!
Thanx Hillzz.

Ok,
I don't know what this all means, I just íntalled it and turned phone holder to portrait mode.
I'll take more screenshots when on the road.
Wish I could open the pics to see details... can't read a thing in those small pics... @Rope help a Brother out.
 

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Perhaps he needs to change the parameters in the settings to be on a 12V system.
Not 'adjustable'. Manual states: "Product not should be used beyond the specified voltage range (6-20V), excessive input voltage may damage the device."

Paul's graph shows a baseline of 14 volts with the 9-30 volt spikes occurring in a third of a second and then his engine is running.
My graph only shows voltage spikes 6-12V over a full second until running @ 13.5V, reflecting slower cranking and cranking duration three times longer than the LiFePO4.

SWAG would be that it has something to do with the LiFePO4 chemistry and starter motor EMF feedback resulting from the battery being able to release all its current and so much faster than lead acid AGM ?
 

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SWAG would be that it has something to do with the LiFePO4 chemistry and EMF feedback resulting from the battery being able to release all its current and so much faster than lead acid AGM ?
Hopefully it's Electromagnetic interference (EMI), also called radio-frequency interference (RFI) when in the radio frequency spectrum, which is a disturbance generated by an external source that affects an electrical circuit by electromagnetic induction, electrostatic coupling, or conduction. If those are real spikes (from a failing/incorrect starter) the Engine Control Unit is gonna go 'pop' and not be heard from again.
 

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I was wondering about this 'lithium' thing myself, so the Underground Testing Initiative racked up a Fury with a top-of-the-line EarthX ETX680C, the largest lithium battery that still fits the stock battery holder.

As neat as they look, I've resisted buying a Made-In-China BlueTooth enabled battery monitor. (I'll try to use small words for @Señor Gar... :D ):
  • Generally unreliable. Chinese quality is usually marginal, so products usually work for at least three months, after that is a gamble. Accuracy is usually surprisingly good, but sometimes odd things cause unexpected results.
  • Potentially invasive software. Many Chinese apps "phone home" and send encrypted data...what data? Who knows. Usually a GPS location and phone information.
  • Yet one more unnecessary tool to get lost. If a person already owns professional quality equipment, why not use it?
I wouldn't leave this attached to the bike because there's a lack of space, and it's one more potential point of failure--if youz guyz taught me anything, it's to reduce the points of failure.

The test Fury sat for 2 or 3 weeks without being on any sort of maintainer, having only been charged previously by the Fury's stock charging system. Parasitic draws are the ECU, clock, PowerCommander 5, and RF receiver.

Since ya all like pictures:

Initial voltage with the key off was 13.3V, lead-acid would probably be 12.2 volts or so.
Turning the key to "on" didn't cause a voltage drop; the headlight is switched off, so no draw there, but the tail lights are on.




At 40°F (4°C) the engine was a bit stiff after sitting a few weeks, so figure there's a higher-than-normal amount of current draw during starting. The engine didn't "pop-off," but rather took about 2-1/4 seconds to start. Minimum voltage was 10.8V:




There was no detectable spike, voltage slowly rose from 13.5V after starting to 14.0V:




Conclusion: The battery works extremely well, and there were no problems with the test equipment reporting odd results.
 

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(I'll try to use small words for @Señor Gar... :D ):
Uh oh. He doesn't like being challenged you know. He figures that he has never been in a room where he wasn't the smartest one in it... :laugh:


Turning the key to "on" didn't cause a voltage drop; the headlight is switched off, so no draw there, but the tail lights are on.
How exactly did you achieve this?
 

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That would be true if it was just the two of us :toast:
I do happen to know that it is not true. But I do see where you went wrong this time. You seem to equate a self-important twat with being intelligent. It is not true.

Turn the switch to "off" before shutting down the bike and leave it there.
Which switch? My headlight does not have a seperate unique switch. If I turn the main off, the tail lights go off. I will have to go outside and verify, but I do not think I can replicate a condition where the bike is energized, but the headlight is not. I am honestly curious if I am missing something here...
 

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@Ordinary Biker : @Señor Gar isn't so bad, just have to get used to him, kind of like @Goat. With Gar a third of the time he's giving out bad advice to prank new guys, another third of the time he has really good knowledge and insight, a third he's plain ol' wrong, and the last third he's having trouble reading big words. Jus' gotta know which third it is. ~:D

Regarding the switch, use the headlight switch. When shutting down switch it to High Beam, hit the red Engine Kill switch, then turn off and remove the key. When starting it back up insert and turn on the key, wait 2 seconds, pull the clutch lever and shift to neutral, turn the EKS to Run, wait 3 seconds, hold the Start button until the engine starts, wait 2 seconds, then switch from High Beam to Low Beam and the headlight comes on. If you don't switch from High Beam the headlight stays off.
 

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@Ordinary Biker : @Señor Gar isn't so bad, just have to get used to him, kind of like @Goat. With Gar a third of the time he's giving out bad advice to prank new guys, another third of the time he has really good knowledge and insight, a third he's plain ol' wrong, and the last third he's having trouble reading big words. Jus' gotta know which third it is. ~:D

Regarding the switch, use the headlight switch. When shutting down switch it to High Beam, hit the red Engine Kill switch, then turn off and remove the key. When starting it back up insert and turn on the key, wait 2 seconds, pull the clutch lever and shift to neutral, turn the EKS to Run, wait 3 seconds, hold the Start button until the engine starts, wait 2 seconds, then switch from High Beam to Low Beam and the headlight comes on. If you don't switch from High Beam the headlight stays off.
Damn Hedge, where did you learn to add fractions ! Who's gonna take the word of someone who can't add single digits ???

As far as being "plain ol' wrong", how the fuck would you know. The second half of the previous post on the headlight is total fabrication.
You don't have a Fury to backup your claim.

When I get something wrong I own it and correct it. Feel free to point out any I've missed and I'll set it or you straight, as I always do.
 

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@Ordinary Biker : @Señor Gar isn't so bad, just have to get used to him, kind of like @Goat. With Gar a third of the time he's giving out bad advice to prank new guys, another third of the time he has really good knowledge and insight, a third he's plain ol' wrong, and the last third he's having trouble reading big words. Jus' gotta know which third it is. ~:D
I would promise to give everything he says proper due consideration, but I have already done that.

Regarding the switch, use the headlight switch. When shutting down switch it to High Beam, hit the red Engine Kill switch, then turn off and remove the key. When starting it back up insert and turn on the key, wait 2 seconds, pull the clutch lever and shift to neutral, turn the EKS to Run, wait 3 seconds, hold the Start button until the engine starts, wait 2 seconds, then switch from High Beam to Low Beam and the headlight comes on. If you don't switch from High Beam the headlight stays off.
I guess I will just have to take your word on this...
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Paul, might want to try hooking your battery monitor up to another vehicle with a lead acid or AGM battery and compare results :nerd:
I think it may be a software bug as I don't see that kind of voltage with my lithium battery and the same battery monitor. If Paul could try it on iOS it should prove or disprove my theory.
 
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