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Both allen bolts holding the stock baffles in my Cobra Swept exhaust are rounded and still need to come out. Short of pulling whole exhaust off the bike and drilling them out, is there another way of getting them off?

I'd like to avoid paying someone ~ $100 to pull the exhaust off to install $90 baffles...if possible.

Thanks everyone!
 

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Both allen bolts holding the stock baffles in my Cobra Swept exhaust are rounded and still need to come out. Short of pulling whole exhaust off the bike and drilling them out, is there another way of getting them off?

I'd like to avoid paying someone ~ $100 to pull the exhaust off to install $90 baffles...if possible.

Thanks everyone!
Put lots of penetrating oil in and on to as much thread and the general area as possible, leave overnight add a bit more oil and use a screw extractor (easy out) to get it undone. Before you start if you see or suspect a high strength thread locker (red) has been used you will need to heat the bolt / area up to get the thread locker to let go. A lot of people use a blow torch to heat the area up but a blow torch can damage chrome. Where chrome is involved I use a 2400 watt heat shrink gun and heat the area with very very hot air. A heat shrink gun is like an over grown hair dryer or paint stripper gun if you're wondering.

Some info on screw extractors
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor
 

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Both allen bolts holding the stock baffles in my Cobra Swept exhaust are rounded and still need to come out. Short of pulling whole exhaust off the bike and drilling them out, is there another way of getting them off?

I'd like to avoid paying someone ~ $100 to pull the exhaust off to install $90 baffles...if possible.

Thanks everyone!
pulling the exhaust off is easy, even with a 1/4 inch drive metric socket set, have done it a billion times, then use an easy out, both available at lowes or any of the big box home improvement stores.............the metric drive set is in the cheapo section in the tools, just ask for the easy out, i think the quarter inch drive set i got a couple years ago was three dollars in one of there close out bins.........still rust free and working well.............................t
 

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mac, brilliant explanation m8, even I would have no trouble understanding that. just a quick thought, in work we have had this problem from time to time as you describe, I noticed our maintenance man used ( sorry for description don't know correct name ) a star shaped type allen key and tapped it into the allen bolt and this has worked. the bolt is already knackerd so give it a try. :wink:
 

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mac, brilliant explanation m8, even I would have no trouble understanding that. just a quick thought, in work we have had this problem from time to time as you describe, I noticed our maintenance man used ( sorry for description don't know correct name ) a star shaped type allen key and tapped it into the allen bolt and this has worked. the bolt is already knackerd so give it a try. :wink:
Thanks Huskamute, the tool your work mate used is a Torx bit/wrech (they come in all kinds of forms including L key and T handle drivers). When you need to get out a buggered fastener there are no rules, anything that will give you enough grip is fair game. :grin: I like your mate's idea about a Torx head, I'm putting that into memory.
 

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If you have a mig welder handy .Get a washer that fits over the bolt head tightly. Tack a piece of welding wire to the washer edge to be able to hold in place. Put the washer over the bolt head and weld them together. Grip the washer with vice grips and screw the bolt out. Replace the bolts with stainless metric bolts.
 

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If you have a mig welder handy .Get a washer that fits over the bolt head tightly. Tack a piece of welding wire to the washer edge to be able to hold in place. Put the washer over the bolt head and weld them together. Grip the washer with vice grips and screw the bolt out. Replace the bolts with stainless metric bolts.
Aha, genius, I tell ya'! That's the old farm way!
 
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