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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tony Started the crap so its all his fault!!!

30 T-mods under my belt. And this is how I do The T-mod...
I am recommending only doing 1-1/2" t-mod because this makes the fender follow the tire perfectly. If your do more then 1-1/2" you start to take away the possibility of other lowering mods like the L&M spring or doing the shock mod. More then an 1-1/2" starts to draw the Taillight into the tire.

Ok, lets begin

On a flat level surface jack up your fury using a motorcycle jack till rear tire is about 4 inches off the ground. make sure the bike is stable and strapped to the lift.

Using 5mm allan socket or wrench, remove the seats
push center down in the push clips holding fender at the front, remove fender. Using a 17mm wrench remove the nut holding the shock to the swing-arm, the bolt is 14mm. Lift the wheel and remove the bolt holding shock to swing-arm, then gently let down the wheel. This 30second step creates plenty of room to maneuver while cutting and welding. Next pop the 3 wire loom clips off the frame post T's by gently pulling them towards you with the open side away from you. this will allow the wires to be positioned multiple times during cutting and welding the T-mod.
Place masking tape on both sides of the frame approximately 2" back going back, from cross braising on frame. from that cross bracing measure and mark 2 1/2" across the top of the support. on the lower from the bracing, measure back and mark 3" and 3 1/4". Using a straight edge connect the lower marks with the upper marks. where the top of the support metal starts to roll, make a cross mark, it will be approx 3/8 from the top. (DO NOT CUT UP PAST THE CROSS MARK!!!) repeat other side.

Cover the bike with a light plastic then a welding blanket or wet towels to keep from burning your furys paint or marring the chrome. take a measurement off the floor to the bottom of the taillight. write this number down.

And .....CUT!!!!!

Cut the Inverted V out. between the lines you made. (DO NOT CUT PAST THE CROSS MARK!!!) when your done cutting with a little force push down that the center of the tail till you have no more movement. (do not get aggressive and jump on it) take a measurement. Depends on how far you want to drop your may have to shave a little more from the V.
Grind all the paint to bare metal 1/2' either way of the cuts all the way around, paint and welding leads to ugly weak welds clean it good!
across the top of the cut grind the paint away in the shape of a T for (Tony)
you have to weld the T in there. I SAID SO!! and Tony loves it!!

And .....WELD!!

Take another measurement, verify you have dropped to your desired distance. Again I recommend an 1 1/2" T-mod.. Tack weld in several spots on both sides to keep the metal from pulling during full weld. Now finish up your welds. And don't forget the T cause I SAID SO!! and Tony loves it!!
It will not be a true T-mod with out the T and Mental will tell ya the same thing! let cool, sand, prime, paint. lift wheel and reinstall shock bolt. reinstall fender.

factory seat... zip tie a 1' long by 1/2"x1/2" piece of hard rubber to the top of your seat clips.
C&C seats... no need for this to the seat clip. BUT!! drill a 1/4" hole the same rubber piece and place it between the fender and frame and zip tie threw fender, rubber and frame.

Put your TRUE CHOPPER back together!!!!!

take your time putting all bolts back in place they are soft and cross thread easily thread as much as you can with your fingers. blow off your bike with air compressor or ride to 60mph for a few to blow off any remaining metal shavings before you start wiping and cleaning your bike.

CONGRATS you have just completed a T-mod
 

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Very nice job Mike and thank you Tony for your very creative idea! Any chance you could give a step by step walk through of your version of the shock lowering procedure also.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Very nice job Mike and thank you Tony for your very creative idea! Any chance you could give a step by step walk through of your version of the shock lowering procedure also.
I have a rough draft in the works for the shock, I just roughed the t-mod into a post, digging for more pics. I have so many and want the right shot. may even swap out a couple on T-mod
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I can't weld, do you know of a welder who has experience with the T-MOD? :D:p:D
there is a guy in Canada named Tony and a couple in Ca I heard about
 

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Good looking welds Mike. What type of welder do you use? I used my old Lincoln Weld-Pak HD. It's a gasless flux-core wire feed welder. It was cheap and does a descent job but it sure makes a lot of slop, no where near as clean as yours. I just 'over-welded' a little and ground it all down smooth and repainted so I have no T (sorry Tony). I might have to have you put a T on mine next time you come through just to make it legit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good looking welds Mike. What type of welder do you use? I used my old Lincoln Weld-Pak HD. It's a gasless flux-core wire feed welder. It was cheap and does a descent job but it sure makes a lot of slop, no where near as clean as yours. I just 'over-welded' a little and ground it all down smooth and repainted so I have no T (sorry Tony). I might have to have you put a T on mine next time you come through just to make it legit.
I took a cheap 110v/gas .030 wire feed on the road trip, I run gas for a cleaner hotter weld. but I have a nice 220v gas in the shop for other welding I do. The 110v is plenty for anything on the Fury.
 

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Damn MFR that is one cute kid in that last picture.

Miles can you take a pic that doesnt require me turning my laptop 90*?
 

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Damn MFR that is one cute kid in that last picture.

Miles can you take a pic that doesnt require me turning my laptop 90*?
lmfao i was thinking the same thing about the pictures, they are nice clean/good looking pictures but just positioned wrong and the only way to view them is to either turn my head sideways or save them and then rotate them, I'm on a macbook.
 

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t-mod shock mod pics

Didn't notice the pics were rotated the wrong way. Thats what I get for usually using my i-phone and a tablet that rotates the screens around.
 

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Looks easy enough! I will be tryin this out in 2 months :D
 

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I wanted to see if the gap was too big. It looks pretty good. I would like to do this also. I convinced my buddy who is a welder to do this for me.
 

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I want to do this but I'm petrified of doing it myself... that and I have no welding tools let alone skills....
 

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Hey MFR, nice tutorial. Even I understood it. I'll enjoy watching you do that to my baby--I do know my limitations!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I wanted to see if the gap was too big. It looks pretty good. I would like to do this also. I convinced my buddy who is a welder to do this for me.
The gap is not much bigger then a cig, pic 3 is the fix to take out the bow when running a solo or 2up c&c seat
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey MFR, nice tutorial. Even I understood it. I'll enjoy watching you do that to my baby--I do know my limitations!
Coors light must be kept at a cool 34* and I prefer the ladies to be wearing bikinis :D
 
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