Tony Started the crap so its all his fault!!!
30 T-mods under my belt. And this is how I do The T-mod...
I am recommending only doing 1-1/2" t-mod because this makes the fender follow the tire perfectly. If your do more then 1-1/2" you start to take away the possibility of other lowering mods like the L&M spring or doing the shock mod. More then an 1-1/2" starts to draw the Taillight into the tire.
Ok, lets begin
On a flat level surface jack up your fury using a motorcycle jack till rear tire is about 4 inches off the ground. make sure the bike is stable and strapped to the lift.
Using 5mm allan socket or wrench, remove the seats
push center down in the push clips holding fender at the front, remove fender. Using a 17mm wrench remove the nut holding the shock to the swing-arm, the bolt is 14mm. Lift the wheel and remove the bolt holding shock to swing-arm, then gently let down the wheel. This 30second step creates plenty of room to maneuver while cutting and welding. Next pop the 3 wire loom clips off the frame post T's by gently pulling them towards you with the open side away from you. this will allow the wires to be positioned multiple times during cutting and welding the T-mod.
Place masking tape on both sides of the frame approximately 2" back going back, from cross braising on frame. from that cross bracing measure and mark 2 1/2" across the top of the support. on the lower from the bracing, measure back and mark 3" and 3 1/4". Using a straight edge connect the lower marks with the upper marks. where the top of the support metal starts to roll, make a cross mark, it will be approx 3/8 from the top. (DO NOT CUT UP PAST THE CROSS MARK!!!) repeat other side.
Cover the bike with a light plastic then a welding blanket or wet towels to keep from burning your furys paint or marring the chrome. take a measurement off the floor to the bottom of the taillight. write this number down.
And .....CUT!!!!!
Cut the Inverted V out. between the lines you made. (DO NOT CUT PAST THE CROSS MARK!!!) when your done cutting with a little force push down that the center of the tail till you have no more movement. (do not get aggressive and jump on it) take a measurement. Depends on how far you want to drop your may have to shave a little more from the V.
Grind all the paint to bare metal 1/2' either way of the cuts all the way around, paint and welding leads to ugly weak welds clean it good!
across the top of the cut grind the paint away in the shape of a T for (Tony)
you have to weld the T in there. I SAID SO!! and Tony loves it!!
And .....WELD!!
Take another measurement, verify you have dropped to your desired distance. Again I recommend an 1 1/2" T-mod.. Tack weld in several spots on both sides to keep the metal from pulling during full weld. Now finish up your welds. And don't forget the T cause I SAID SO!! and Tony loves it!!
It will not be a true T-mod with out the T and Mental will tell ya the same thing! let cool, sand, prime, paint. lift wheel and reinstall shock bolt. reinstall fender.
factory seat... zip tie a 1' long by 1/2"x1/2" piece of hard rubber to the top of your seat clips.
C&C seats... no need for this to the seat clip. BUT!! drill a 1/4" hole the same rubber piece and place it between the fender and frame and zip tie threw fender, rubber and frame.
Put your TRUE CHOPPER back together!!!!!
take your time putting all bolts back in place they are soft and cross thread easily thread as much as you can with your fingers. blow off your bike with air compressor or ride to 60mph for a few to blow off any remaining metal shavings before you start wiping and cleaning your bike.
CONGRATS you have just completed a T-mod
30 T-mods under my belt. And this is how I do The T-mod...
I am recommending only doing 1-1/2" t-mod because this makes the fender follow the tire perfectly. If your do more then 1-1/2" you start to take away the possibility of other lowering mods like the L&M spring or doing the shock mod. More then an 1-1/2" starts to draw the Taillight into the tire.
Ok, lets begin
On a flat level surface jack up your fury using a motorcycle jack till rear tire is about 4 inches off the ground. make sure the bike is stable and strapped to the lift.
Using 5mm allan socket or wrench, remove the seats
push center down in the push clips holding fender at the front, remove fender. Using a 17mm wrench remove the nut holding the shock to the swing-arm, the bolt is 14mm. Lift the wheel and remove the bolt holding shock to swing-arm, then gently let down the wheel. This 30second step creates plenty of room to maneuver while cutting and welding. Next pop the 3 wire loom clips off the frame post T's by gently pulling them towards you with the open side away from you. this will allow the wires to be positioned multiple times during cutting and welding the T-mod.
Place masking tape on both sides of the frame approximately 2" back going back, from cross braising on frame. from that cross bracing measure and mark 2 1/2" across the top of the support. on the lower from the bracing, measure back and mark 3" and 3 1/4". Using a straight edge connect the lower marks with the upper marks. where the top of the support metal starts to roll, make a cross mark, it will be approx 3/8 from the top. (DO NOT CUT UP PAST THE CROSS MARK!!!) repeat other side.
Cover the bike with a light plastic then a welding blanket or wet towels to keep from burning your furys paint or marring the chrome. take a measurement off the floor to the bottom of the taillight. write this number down.
And .....CUT!!!!!
Cut the Inverted V out. between the lines you made. (DO NOT CUT PAST THE CROSS MARK!!!) when your done cutting with a little force push down that the center of the tail till you have no more movement. (do not get aggressive and jump on it) take a measurement. Depends on how far you want to drop your may have to shave a little more from the V.
Grind all the paint to bare metal 1/2' either way of the cuts all the way around, paint and welding leads to ugly weak welds clean it good!
across the top of the cut grind the paint away in the shape of a T for (Tony)
you have to weld the T in there. I SAID SO!! and Tony loves it!!
And .....WELD!!
Take another measurement, verify you have dropped to your desired distance. Again I recommend an 1 1/2" T-mod.. Tack weld in several spots on both sides to keep the metal from pulling during full weld. Now finish up your welds. And don't forget the T cause I SAID SO!! and Tony loves it!!
It will not be a true T-mod with out the T and Mental will tell ya the same thing! let cool, sand, prime, paint. lift wheel and reinstall shock bolt. reinstall fender.
factory seat... zip tie a 1' long by 1/2"x1/2" piece of hard rubber to the top of your seat clips.
C&C seats... no need for this to the seat clip. BUT!! drill a 1/4" hole the same rubber piece and place it between the fender and frame and zip tie threw fender, rubber and frame.
Put your TRUE CHOPPER back together!!!!!
take your time putting all bolts back in place they are soft and cross thread easily thread as much as you can with your fingers. blow off your bike with air compressor or ride to 60mph for a few to blow off any remaining metal shavings before you start wiping and cleaning your bike.
CONGRATS you have just completed a T-mod