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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Good Morning All,

I'm Tom and I'm new here. 13' Honda Fury (non abs) 5k miles purchased from Honda Northwest in Illinois. Mods i have been able to identify

Low and Mean Front/Rear Fender
Low and Mean Pan Seat
Power Commander V
Unidentified Air Cleaner
Unidentified Grips/Mirrors
(If you notice anything else please let me know as I have yet to see a stock one up close)

Mods I have ordered/awaiting Install
STG Ground Pounders (black w/ titanium wrap)
5 3/4 black headlight bullet

Mods I am looking into/would like advice on
Custom Speedo Faceplate
Engine/Engine Component Blackout

Actual Needs Of The Bike
New Tires From The Looks Of It (recommendations welcome)
Fluid Change-up Due To Age vs. Miles


20200709_105530_09.jpg
20200709_183246_09.jpg
20200709_183259_03.jpg
20200709_105530_05.jpg
20200709_105530_01.jpg

20200709_105530_09.jpg


Any tips, comments, hatred, malice, or advice is much appreciated. From what I've seen of this community so far yall seem pretty kickass. 馃馃徎馃馃徎
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Those are factory triple trees NOT 8掳.... just FYI.
Ah, what's the tell? I was only basing of mine vs pictures of stock. The dealer said he knew the old owner and would get a list of mods but for now it's all guess work for me.

Also, ouch my pride 馃槳
 

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Ah, what's the tell? I was only basing of mine vs pictures of stock. The dealer said he knew the old owner and would get a list of mods but for now it's all guess work for me.

Also, ouch my pride 馃槳
Is it just obvious from the wheelbase? The triple trees do not align with the tube on the frame, then again this is my first cruiser.
The stock triple trees are raked about 6掳, that is why they don't line up with the neck tube.

The tell is that the factory triple trees are open on the top clamp and you can see the fork nut sticking out the top.

The aftermarket 8掳 trees are closed in on the top and the fork bottoms out inside the clamp. When you run the 8掳 trees you are supposed to install 3" fork extension and lower the rear end to keep the trail numbers right.

The fork extensions are flat on top instead of having that nut on the top like the factory caps do.

The smooth top extensions fit into and bottom out in the 8掳 trees upper clamp.

Hope this all makes sense ... here is a pic to help out...
237323


8掳 trees and 4" fork extensions stretch the wheelbase about an extra 3.5" as well.

That is what my bike had in my signature pic below... also air ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The stock triple trees are raked about 6掳, that is why they don't line up with the neck tube.

The tell is that the factory triple trees are open on the top clamp and you can see the fork nut sticking out the top.

The aftermarket 8掳 trees are closed in on the top and the fork bottoms out inside the clamp. When you run the 8掳 trees you are supposed to install 3" fork extension and lower the rear end to keep the trail numbers right.

The fork extensions are flat on top instead of having that nut on the top like the factory caps do.

The smooth top extensions fit into and bottom out in the 8掳 trees upper clamp.

Hope this all makes sense ... here is a pic to help out...
View attachment 237323

8掳 trees and 4" fork extensions stretch the wheelbase about an extra 3.5" as well.

Edit: I definitely do not have an 8掳 Triple Tree 馃槅馃槅. Thanks for the breakdown, very interesting. That seems like an awful lot of work for an extra 3.5" on the wheelbase. How do you know so much about it, have you done this. Thanks again 馃馃徎馃馃徎
 

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The stock triple trees are raked about 6掳, that is why they don't line up with the neck tube.

The tell is that the factory triple trees are open on the top clamp and you can see the fork nut sticking out the top.

The aftermarket 8掳 trees are closed in on the top and the fork bottoms out inside the clamp. When you run the 8掳 trees you are supposed to install 3" fork extension and lower the rear end to keep the trail numbers right.

The fork extensions are flat on top instead of having that nut on the top like the factory caps do.

The smooth top extensions fit into and bottom out in the 8掳 trees upper clamp.

That is what my bike had in my signature pic below... also air ride.
Dammit @Kbuskill, now you got me thinking that I need to add 8* trees to my bike. Sigh.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
The stock triple trees are raked about 6掳, that is why they don't line up with the neck tube.

The tell is that the factory triple trees are open on the top clamp and you can see the fork nut sticking out the top.

The aftermarket 8掳 trees are closed in on the top and the fork bottoms out inside the clamp. When you run the 8掳 trees you are supposed to install 3" fork extension and lower the rear end to keep the trail numbers right.

The fork extensions are flat on top instead of having that nut on the top like the factory caps do.

The smooth top extensions fit into and bottom out in the 8掳 trees upper clamp.

Hope this all makes sense ... here is a pic to help out...
View attachment 237323

8掳 trees and 4" fork extensions stretch the wheelbase about an extra 3.5" as well.

That is what my bike had in my signature pic below... also air ride.
I'm still figuring this site out so I saw the picture on your white fury. Beautiful boke 馃馃徎馃馃徎. Is that what the 8掳 looks like. Your front looks longer than mine does.
 

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I don't know what you're waiting for.... Git-R-Dun.... lol
Well, waiting for my new air can to get here, then we'll see if I can find a set of trees
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Yes... I went back and edited my post while you were posting evidently.... see my earlier post for all the details.
Looks good and that is quite a difference actually. Was it expensive AND was it worth it. How'd she rode after that. You mentioned suspension and trailing, is the suspension to raise the rear up?
 

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You are supposed to lower the rear end to keep the trail numbers close to factory. Most guys either cut the factory spring or install a Low & Mean lowering spring in the back.

If you go with the lowering spring there are 2 versions depending on your/your passengers weight. The standard lowering spring and the XL lowering spring for carrying more weight.

I built my own bleed feed air ride system (Home made Platinum air ride) so I could have infinite adjustability.

She rode great... no issues... slightly bigger turning radius of course but not too bad.

Price if you buy new will set you back $800-$900 including the fork extensions.

I bought mine, including the 4" extensions from a guy on the forum and they were already powder coated black for $400 if I remember correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the info. I wanted to ask if you could get them powedercoated but didn't want to bother you too much. 400 is a badass deal. Thats sick that you built your own air ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You are supposed to lower the rear end to keep the trail numbers close to factory. Most guys either cut the factory spring or install a Low & Mean lowering spring in the back.

If you go with the lowering spring there are 2 versions depending on your/your passengers weight. The standard lowering spring and the XL lowering spring for carrying more weight.

I built my own bleed feed air ride system (Home made Platinum air ride) so I could have infinite adjustability.

She rode great... no issues... slightly bigger turning radius of course but not too bad.

Price if you buy new will set you back $800-$900 including the fork extensions.

I bought mine, including the 4" extensions from a guy on the forum and they were already powder coated black for $400 if I remember correctly.
In that pic of your bike is it sitting down all the way on the fender or is that ride height? I wouldn't mind a slightly larger turn radius, im amazed at how tight I can do it now on the bike.
 

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In that pic of your bike is it sitting down all the way on the fender or is that ride height? I wouldn't mind a slightly larger turn radius, im amazed at how tight I can do it now on the bike.
@Kbuskill was probably one of the originators (or THE one) that ran a DIY air suspension kit, because you can do it at half the cost of what's available out there on the market. I based my air ride on his thread and added my own features to it. I can't answer for him if it's sitting all the way on the fender, but if you build a kit, probably not a great idea for it to be all the way down on the fender. If it's just a show bike, maybe, but if one of the pieces of the system is compromised and you lose air pressure, the last thing you want when you're doing 80 on the highway is for the tire to meet the fender frame. Think shredded tire and a really bad day.

I built my kit with a bump stop that gives about 1/4" gap between fender frame and tire if I was to completely lose pressure....which has happened to me before. Why 1/4"? Nothing mathematical about it but you need to account for the flex in the frame/suspension/swingarm if you happen to be riding with no air in your system and take a turn, hit a bump, etc. As well, your frame is REALLY close to ground in the rear of the bike if you're completely slammed...ie you WILL scrape frame getting home around corners. No way around it.

Hard to tell from photos, but from what Kb and I figured, our bikes were pretty much identical when they were dropped.

This was a photo from about a year ago. A few things have changed on the bike since then, most noticeably the pipes and intake. But it's dropped all the way down when I park it (photo is dropped 100%)

 

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Discussion Starter #20
@Kbuskill was probably one of the originators (or THE one) that ran a DIY air suspension kit, because you can do it at half the cost of what's available out there on the market. I based my air ride on his thread and added my own features to it. I can't answer for him if it's sitting all the way on the fender, but if you build a kit, probably not a great idea for it to be all the way down on the fender. If it's just a show bike, maybe, but if one of the pieces of the system is compromised and you lose air pressure, the last thing you want when you're doing 80 on the highway is for the tire to meet the fender frame. Think shredded tire and a really bad day.

I built my kit with a bump stop that gives about 1/4" gap between fender frame and tire if I was to completely lose pressure....which has happened to me before. Why 1/4"? Nothing mathematical about it but you need to account for the flex in the frame/suspension/swingarm if you happen to be riding with no air in your system and take a turn, hit a bump, etc. As well, your frame is REALLY close to ground in the rear of the bike if you're completely slammed...ie you WILL scrape frame getting home around corners. No way around it.

Hard to tell from photos, but from what Kb and I figured, our bikes were pretty much identical when they were dropped.

This was a photo from about a year ago. A few things have changed on the bike since then, most noticeably the pipes and intake. But it's dropped all the way down when I park it (photo is dropped 100%)

Damn thats a nice ride. Love the exhaust and intake. Would loke to do a spike on mine but I get caught up looking at a bunch of different info and then get overloaded. Love that green tho. Thanks for the info on the air ride, the 1/4" bump is a wise move, I'd rather drag frame in the turns than drag a tire up my back haha
 
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