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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, back from 3 weeks holiday in ASIA and all the parts had arrived for the modifications to start.

Fitted the new TREES and 3" extensions yesterday, was fairly easy, had to do it on my own so had to modify the procedure a bit. No real problems encountered, just the bottom bearing race was hard to start for removal, Aussie claw hammers must be a different shape to L & M's. Ended up making a special tool for the job, 20 mins to make it and 30 seconds of use.

Bought the TREES from MEAN Cycles they were about $80 cheaper on trees and postage combined.

The EASY part was over, now to replace all the ABS brake lines with MAGNUM ChromiteII braided lines. Long story short I had to physically cut each of the 3 steel lines into about 4 pieces to remove them, keeping the end at the ABS modulator about 8 inches long as I will use this fitting to connect the new lines to. I will post pictures of the lines and the modified pipe on Wednesday when I get the fittings silver soldered on.

The new cables went in nicely after lots of trying of different routes, will also post photos of the route etc this week for all ABS owners to see.

The photos below show the ABS piping half out and the new Magnum ones going in.





Also covering the front power cables in stainless braid, mainly that big ugly mother that comes from under the tank into the headlight. Tonight I spent half an hour on the big white connector and figured out hour to extract the pins without damaging anything. I have stripped off all the black casing and tape. Will cover the wires in flexible heatshrink and then cover it with the stainless braid casing (fake, but looks the part), then put the connectors back on. More photos tomorrow night.

Before you ask, yes I will post a dedicated post on how to remove the connectors with lots of photos.
 

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Glad to see this. I have been stalling on getting the 8deg.triple because of the ABS. So go slow take lots and lots of photos and document everything and write very slowly I will need it. Plus when I start it be prepared for some PMs from me.
 

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Looking good bro, can’t wait to get mine now! I can’t decide to have them chromed first or not, guess I’ll have to wait to see how they look. Definitely get some pics up when everything is put back together.
 

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I'm with richard on the Can't wait part. Lookin good. I am gonna send mine off regardless since they have to rechrome my rear caliper and caliper mount anyway.
 

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Good to see this Fury_Guy, and good timing too since I'll be doing the same thing in a few weeks. Looking forward to the next set of pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all, hope all this effort is worth it. Spent an hour at Redback Choppers tonight modifying the 3 nipples that will be silver soldered onto the original steel cables. This was a bit of overkill as my drill press would have done the job but I wanted to test his lathe.

All is done and ready, the original steel pipes are now about 4" long and ready for soldering tomorrow at the brake place and they will pressure test them as well.

Mental, good to hear from you, the new cables run from the front caliper all the way to the ABS modulater just in front of the swing arm. The blocks have been removed for ever :):)
The master cylinder also runs back to the modulator in one length.
The kit from Lindkivst is very similar I think, I emailed them and they also run the cables in one run as I have done, they said they never noticed any braking difference either way. I couldn't wait for them so I went ahead myself, not sure what the price of their kit is but the three cables cost $195 +postage from MAGNUM and another $50 for three nipples and soldering, pretty good value I reckon :D. I will post up all the lengths and ends etc that you will need for magnum to make the cables.

I will post more pictures in about one hour of the final cable route and also the pipes and cables at the modulator in their mock up position prior to soldering.

Cheers
GUY
 

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The blocks are gone forever? I just don't get it, then why did Honda use the block insted of running longer stuff? I am having a hard time thinking a Sweed and an Aussie smarter than a Japanise. It just perplexes me all to hell. Was that block just scrap metal? Dam ABS! :confused::confused::confused:

PS: No Sweeds or Aussies were hurt by this post, just Mental. Cheers.
PS: By Cables do you mean, Cables=Brake Lines?
PS: PICS PICS PICS, lots of em.
PS: Say Hi to the Wife!

....
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Discussion Starter #9
Mental, your dead right, Aussies and Swedes are smarter. Sorry did I say cables, I mean't brake lines.

Sorry all the photos are all on Photobucket, what a heap of S%^T program. Its to late now so I will post them up tomorrow night. Hope you can all forgive me. :D:D:D

Cheers
GUY
 

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Looking good bro, can’t wait to get mine now! I can’t decide to have them chromed first or not, guess I’ll have to wait to see how they look. Definitely get some pics up when everything is put back together.
You'll see mine chromed when you get here... planned on highjacking you to bring you over for dinner that night... So hopefully with the bad weather here, I don't do anything stupid on the bike before you get here... lol
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi all, been busy again, sorry no time tonight fo photos as the wife made me go out, have to keep the sex CREDITS in the positive so no choice but go.

Had the brake lines s/soldered today, he done them on the spot. When I got home I decided that while all the fluid was out I may as well do the rear brake line as well. Pulled the rubber hose and its associated block out, cut off the rubber hose and prepared it for the new AN3 male fitting which will be soldered on tomorrow. I took photos of the rear as well, I think that this section could be the same for non-ABS bikes as well.

Hopefully tomorrow I will have the pipes painted and start on the front end wiring loom. Hope to have this all done and back on the road by Xmas :rolleyes:

Here is a quick shot of the rear of the bike at the ABS modulator. You can see the 4" of original pipes the male AN3 fittings and the new MAGNUM cables in their mock up position.



Will put up the rest of the photos tomorrow evening.
Cheers
GUY
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm back and have a hour or two to complete this article. The brakes are all on and bled, just the wiring to go tomorrow afternoon and we are on the road. :D:D:D

Okay, here are the pictures with an explanation of each ....



This is an overall view of the backbone of the bike, you can see the two Stainless Steel (SS) lines running down either side (inside) the plastic tray and disappearing just in front of the seat mount, these lines have to be kept fairly tight to the tray as it is fairly tight through the tunnel, i need another cable tie in the middle as it is bowing up. The Master Cylinder (MC) line runs parallel with the throttle cables and continues with the frame toward the rear.




And here is a similar view but showing how I hold the tank to one side using outdoor chairs and a pair of socks under the tank and frame works well. I only disconnect the two wires for the fuel gauge to do this, a simple pull off and push on fit. Lift the tank up from the rear and oscillate from side to side (not up and down) when removing from the front mounts. Do the reverse when sliding back on but put a bit of spit on the front rubber donuts first, nothing like a bit of lube.




A close up of the front of the tank area, all cabling and lines run inside the tank mount, note the large cable tie holding all down. The wiring loom will get covered tomorrow in electrical tape and fake SS braid. The ABS sensor wiring still has to be joined, it originally had a plug and socket big enough for 20 wires. Had to remove the pins as well to enable the fake SS braid to go over it. You can just see the braid behind the heatshrink, it is actually brighter than the brake lines but does not show up as such when using a flash.




Here you can see the path taken at the rear end of the tank, there is a couple of ways to go but I chose this route as I made the MC line about 2" longer than required for when I build the new handle bars in January. You can hide this extra length by taking a longer route, see the pictures.




The MC line goes under the shock adjuster and all lines are cable tied back to the looms and other mounts as it gets close to the moving suspension in there.



OOPS exceeded the image count ... next post
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here you can see the three lines wrapping around the fuse box and heading down the frame between the swing arm and boomerang section. All the joins actually hide in behind this section.




Here is a close up, the best I could manage, not much room to get an SLR camera and macro lens into. Anyway you can see the idea, 4" of original pipe joined to the SS lines via AN3 fittings. The short steel pipes allow you to connect and adjust for any length stuff ups you may have had but more importantly as I found out they physically keep the SS lines away from the moving swing arm, there is not much room in there and not much to tie things back to. I fine tuned these by bending them slightly after they were bolted and tightened in place.




And here are the three pipes after being silver soldered up, all bends are originals, I may have tweaked one or two on the dry run before soldering but it was only slightly.



Before you put all this pipe work back into the modulator I would suggest you change the rear hose, it is nearly impossible to access once the SS lines go in. Simply remove the hose and its associated block from the bike, I was just able to access the bolt securing the block in place through the Cobra exhaust mount with a long 1/4 drive extension and socket. Remove the pipe from the block first that goes to the brake pressure valve, there is a threaded hole in the block (not used) that a small screw straight screwdriver will fit into to hold it when you undo the nipple. A short 10mm open ender is ideal here.

Cut the hose off the block with a hacksaw so it looks like the one in the picture below.



The AN3 fitting fits over the steel tube that is left after you cut the pipe off, I had drilled out the AN3 fitting to 6mm and filed down the stub pipe slightly to fit in the AN3 fitting. This will depend on the AN3 fittings you buy. The finished product should look like this ..




It all bolted back in easily enough. There is a rubber mount holding the hose to the swing arm, I cut the hose off either side of this rubber mount and ran a 9mm drill through it so it would fit the SS hose. No problems but I think the mount forces too tight an arc, about 1.5" - 2" radius bend, between the mounting block and the swing arm. The SS braid is slightly creased. I will look at moving the rubber mount an inch forward and up by using a long bolt and a 1" spacer. The mount is actually at 45 degrees so the hose will go up about 3/4", hopefully enough to relieve the strain.

Thats about it for the moment. Will have some closer to finished photos tomorrow or Friday and also the removal of the connectors on the loom.

PS No leaks yet ;)

Cheers
Guy
 

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Great write up!

Thats about it for the moment. Will have some closer to finished photos tomorrow or Friday and also the removal of the connectors on the loom.

PS No leaks yet ;)

Cheers
Guy
This is exactly what I've been looking for. Very helpful and much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay, here is a finished photo, 99%, of the ABS replacement saga. I have used white cable ties to tidy the cables, I am sourcing stainless steel ones to replace them with. You will also notice the electrical looms on the bars and frame/speedo to headlight have been sleeved in fake chrome braid. Very effective for the price.

Also I have the 2" Scootworks risers; with these all throttle & clutch cables are original lengths, I just ran them behind the trees to keep the front of the bike clean.




This is my Xmas present - the IRATE Grille. One of the cheapest easiest mods out and yet makes such a huge improvement.:):)

 

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Looks awesome, FG! Thanks for the detailed write-up and the final pics. These types of DIY write-ups are a major part of what makes this place a goldmine... along with the people. (most of them);)
 

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This is crazy awesome! I'm ordering the Swedish kit from low and mean in the next few days and will do the trees and fork extensions at the same time. Only real concern I have is bleeding the abs system. Can I ask how you did this?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi, haven't been around for a few weeks and only just read this.

Bleeding the ABS was a bit of a concern at first but it turned out to be exactly the same as a normal brake system. I did the front first and then the rear, which also does the second front piston. I just went between the front and rear and it all came up as good as original.

Cheers
Guy
 
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