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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Most of you know that the early year Fury's (2010, 2011, and some early 2012) came with the fuel filter element in the fuel pump in the horizontal position at the bottom of the bowl. This was a poor design by Honda which they recognized and changed to a vertical element in the 2012 model forward. It led to a lot of issues with the bike dying or not starting.

Filter kit P/N 16706-HN8-305

I have a 2011 bike and have not experienced any starting issues, but I had the upgraded filter on hand. I had to remove my air ride today to put on the new cylinder, so I figured this was the time to do it since everything would be out of the way.

This can be done on the bike without removing the tank, and you only need 1 special tool, and that's a couple of fuel line clamps:

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First thing to do is get everything out of the way. This includes the covers to access what you need to get to remove the shock and adjuster if you are running OEM. As well, remove the rear bolt of the fuel tank and prop it up with a slim piece of wood. You do not need to disconnect anything under the tank

Once the shock is out of there, you can easily see the fuel pump down in there . You are going to remove what they call the P2 connector:

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Once that's disconnected, start the bike like you normally would. It will run for a few seconds and die. Your fuel system is now pressure relieved.

Now you want to remove the injector line at the fuel pump by depressing the two bottom green tabs towards each other while pushing down, then pulling up on the line. This is not easy. One key thing to note...there is a black rubber "wing" looking thing under the green lock...it needs to be in the orientation shown in the photo to be able to press the tabs in far enough to pull the line off. Be ready with some paper towels, some residual fuel will come out of that line:

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I just shoved a shop towel into the end of the line to keep stuff out while I was doing this, but you can use a sandwich baggie or something as well:

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Next slide the two hose clamps on the tank lines up out of the way, and apply a hose clamp on each line. There is only 1 shown in this photo, but put on on each:

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Slowly remove each line, 1 by 1, and be ready for a small amount of fuel to leak out. Have a shop towel ready. Put the lines somewhere off to the side where they are out of your way:

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Next remove the two screws located at the blue arrows. After those are out, the fuel pump is ready to come out. THe FSM has you remove the large bundle of wires to the frame (towards the engine) but after fighting it for a while, I gave up and decided I was going to tetris it out:

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This is the orientation I was finally able to get mine out the back towards the rear tire. It took a bit of wiggling. When I reinstalled, I went through the top. I wouldn't say it was any easier, but you can remove and replace from either direction with the tire on:

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....continued next post
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Next you will have your pump out, remove the 6 screws holding the keeper ring on:

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The o-ring that is on the inner bore of the housing is in there GOOD. It takes some even prying to get the fuel pump assy out of the housing, but work slowly all the way around with something that won't damage the aluminum housing surface. Eventually it will pop out. The o-ring on the surface groove is no issue, just use a pick and remove it. A look inside of my fuel bowl:

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And yup, I have the original, OEM horizontal fuel filter element. Take note of that o-ring pointed out by the red arrow. It came out with the fuel pump element, but you won't install it on the pump element. When you're ready to reassemble, it will go in the housing groove first or you will never get that pump element back in. I fought it for a while :

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Clean out your filter bowl, this is the bore I'm talking about for the above o-ring:

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You then can just spin your filter element off. Note the proper direction to turn it. I think it unlocked with a quarter turn or maybe a bit more:

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Remove the fuel unit plastic housing outlined in blue by slightly pushing from the bottom to relieve pressure on the tabs, then use a flatblade or similar to slightly open the tabs up. When you have all 3 looking like this, you can slide the plastic off:

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The next part is kind of tough. The new plastic piece that comes with your kit is a new design. The outlet nipple on your fuel pump unit will seat in the bore (shown at blue arrow). It will only align properly one way. It takes some significant force to push this thing down onto the unit. I also had to rock it a bit. You can see I flipped the unit upside down and used the face of the housing for pushing leverage so I had a flat surface to work with. You want to push that thing down until the 3 tabs are flush with the body as shown:

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You then install the filter element onto the pump element outlet. There is a small o-ring you need to install. FSM calls for silicone grease on the o ring. It's not shown here but it will come in your kit:

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Sorry for the poor image, but there is an arrow on the pump plastic housing as well as the filter element. You know it's locked in correctly when they align:

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And that is it. When putting back together, remember the o-ring I mentioned, put it in the bore of the pump housing before you drop the pump unit back in. It will make your life much easier. Also don't forget to put your face sealing o-ring back in it's groove as well. It should come with the kit as well.

Put back onto the bike in reverse of how you installed. Once you remove the fuel clamps, you should hear the tank glugging and filling the fuel pump.

Once you've verified that everything is set, with the switch in run position, cycle the key on and let the pump run till it quits. Repeat this 3-4x to ensure the system is primed and the fuel pump is full.

When you're ready, fire it up and let it run a while, and watch your fuel pump and ensure there are no leaks anywhere. Re-install everything that you removed and ride on!

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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I think this is the best write up ever.

Convinced I hope to never have to attempt this fix.

Just lucky I got a 2013 !
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you have a stock setup, it will likely be much easier getting the pump out. That was the trickiest part for me (other than not putting both clamps on the hoses before trying to remove them and spraying fuel all over everything, which now requires a re paint of all my covers).

I had to fight getting the pump around pnematic lines and fittings, as well as a ton of extra wiring I have running around for my compressor, ground lighting, battery tender, amp connectors, and a few other various things.

Since most wont have that, more room to work.

One thing to note... It's the fuel filter element you are replacing. It's not a lifetime of the vehicle type part. Just like the fuel filter on your car needs to be replaced every xxx miles, this one does too. I'd have to consult the FSM for interval though, so it's good to figure it will be replaced in the life time of the bike.
 
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