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Sorry if this is in the wrong section but I'm curious about something.

I want to get the V&H Cruzers for my fury but can't seem to find them online. Is the only way to get them by ordering them for a different make bike and fabbing a bracket?

Any help on this would be great and thanks in advance for your response's.

Ride safe

Nick
[email protected]
 

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yes you have to order them for a VTX1300 and fab a bracket, at least that's all thats all that's still showing on there website, but I would give them a call as they were supposed to produce some stuff for the Fury, it was in there 2010 catalog, I would call them to see if they have something made already that they aren't showing on the website.

If you go to vanceandhines.com and look at the top right corner you can see the link to download the 2010 catalog and see what they are going to offer, I looked at it before but can't remember and I can't download the catalog and look for you as it takes me to long to download it. Hope this helps.
 

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that's the link, Nick. I used that template for my cruzers and had a buddy fab the bracket. we did a couple of test fittings until it sized up properly. then he trimmed the edges until it was invisible to see from the rear or side.
Love my V&H sound and they look great. Good Luck and don't forget to get 'new' gaskets. they're cheaper than a new engine.
 

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imho they look just like those gawd-awful OEM's. and cost $200 more!

Fab'ing the bracket using OJGP's pictures is a no brainer. (Use Nick's link above) Get some 1/4" billet aluminum, metal bits for the drill and sabre saw blade, and a vise to keep it firm while you bend it. Jeez, we watch Jesse and the Teutuls do this every week. It ain't brain surgery. It's a great way to spend your Saturday morning! total cost less than $30.

Here's just one link for a metal supplier:
Speedy Metals - 1/4" 6061-T651 Aluminum Plate

I don't know these guys-so, I have nothing to gain by recommending them. just google "billet aluminum".

My bracket is approx. 7.5"X9" and looks like the hosel & blade end of a hockey stick--"L" shaped.

Use OJGP's template/pix and cut the general shape larger than necessary so you can line up the holes. Use the OEM bolts/washers/nuts and the cool little monkey clips that V&H supplies. Heck, you might be able to do some job or billet swapping with a metal shop guy for the heavy duty vtx bracket that V&H supplies with the vtx pipes.

Take the billet and lean it against the bottom frame holes and mark their location. While a buddy is holding the pipes you can measure and mark the upper holes on the pipes.
Drill out the bottom holes and mount the 'basically' trimmed plate to the bike. then re-align the pipes and make sure the upper markings still hold true.

Mark around the bracket where you intend to trim it and then use your Sabre saw to trim away the excess billet. Trim lightly and allow enough space top and bottom in case you drilled wrong. you can always drill out the holes, up or down and make oblong holes to wiggle the billet into place.

Once you get that initial "L" shape cut out you can bend the vertical piece of the bracket on your vise. Use a rubber mallet to start forming it. Then fit it against the pipes and frame until you get it close to perfect. It's not a big angle to form.
Drill out the top holes and continue to fit it again. You want it as close to perfect as possible so that you don't put any strain on the manifold when you bolt the pipes on.

Oh, and keep the shields real loose during the fitment phase.
The toughest part of this whole deal is getting your sockets and wrenches to fit into the tight spaces on the cylinders. You do not have to remove any other parts from the Fury during this fitment. Just be patient with the bolt-on phase. As for how much to tighten--tighten 'real tight'. You may want to check the fitment of the bolts after about 50 miles of riding to make sure everything is still locked down.

I suggest wiping down those shields real good BEFORE firing her up for the first time. And, if you can wipe down the raw tubes before fitting and then wear gloves to keep the body oils off the raw pipes during fitment you can avoid additional bluing. btw, you will get bluing at the cylinder end of the raw pipes; can't avoid that. the shields will hide that area if you've adjusted them properly. V&H supplies a nice instruction sheet showing how to mount the shield clips. Follow those directions so you can do any final tweaking after bolting the pipes on.

One more thing: get some wide blue painter's masking tape and mask off any areas you think your tools might hit. You'll appreciate this when you're done.
 
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