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Moditis has hit again.

Saw a set of these browsing and had to have them. I think they fit the Green Reaper theme well.

I went the opposite of the posted image though and did black blades with a green adjuster.

Welp since these didn't work, ordered a set of the black zombie/skull levers. I like the style too with grooves for the fingers, plus they should have significantly more pull per the throw because of the blade profile. I do really like these blade levers, but they unfortunately just won't work.
 

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It depends. While riding no. When stopped you notice the heat and if you're not careful can brush against the pipe. Wearing the proper PPE is always a good idea but sturdy pants are a necessity.
I wrapped my version and it helps out quite a bit, but same experience. Never hot while riding, if stopped for a long time just gotta place my leg properly. It's become automatic
 

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Well, I got my set installed yesterday. They were really easy to install, pretty straight forward.

Review

Looks: A+
Functionality, Brake Side: A+
Functionality, Clutch Side: F

Here's a few photos installed:
View attachment 234830 View attachment 234831

View attachment 234832 View attachment 234833

These are nice because they have a "throw" adjuster, which means relative to the cam mechanism that bolts into the housing on the bars, the lever can be adjusted out and in for reach...ie different sized hands.

I'm running "Glen's Clutch Pull" bracket because I'm in a lot of traffic, so it takes a lot less force to activate the clutch. But after I got that, I had to make a pretty decent adjustment on the barrel adjuster down on the engine case to get the release and clamping of the pressure plate onto the disks back into range. So there isn't a lot of cable adjustment left down there.

Below are a couple of shots of the difference of lever profiles between stock and the blade levers:

View attachment 234834 View attachment 234835

This profile is what makes the clutch side not work so well. You can tell by the levers that the blade lever will hit the grip well before stock in that orientation. Which means for the same cable adjustment as stock, it won't pull enough cable, or "push" the pressure plate off the disks as far as the OEM lever would allow.

I confirmed this by clicking it into first and picking my feet up. The bike, with my weight would slowly creep forward. I mean barely, so the adjustment was close. Now, with these levers, the throw comes into play. If you set the levers' throw to be as far from the bar as possible, you will get extra pull on the cable, or push on the pressure plate so it's not engaging the clutch pack when you pull the lever all the way in.

But with the throw set all the way away from the bar, you need to have monster hands. It was really hard to reach the lever comfortably. What this essentially does is shift feel of when the clutch pack engages...ie it moves it away from the bar. You can also tighten the cable and this will also allow you, when the lever is pulled, to disengage the pressure plate further from the clutch pack. You have to be careful with all these combinations, because eventually the cam comes to a hard stop against the housing (on the lever). If the pressure plate isn't fully released onto the clutch pack, you'll always be slipping the clutch and it will be worn out fast.

So what was the issue? Shifting through the gears while riding was fine. Getting the bike into neutral while the bike was shut off? Easy. Getting the bike into neutral at a dead stop (lever pulled in) from first gear (biike running)...wasn't gonna happen. Rolling into a light and putting it in neutral...sometimes.

Maybe these will work for stock clutch pack, stock pressure plate rod bracket, etc, but I could not make them work with my setup where the lever was still comfortable to reach with a reasonable bite point (Glen's mod, Barnett clutch pack, Barnett pressure plate springs) without worrying about the clutch pack slipping.

If the profile of these levers was changed up a bit, I believe it could work. Time to look for something else that will go with the theme.
I wanted to revisit this. The new grade for functionality is a B. After some riding around, warming the engine, and a couple more adjustments, I was able to get them to function properly. I don't have much adjustment left on the lower jam nuts, but they are working. So I'm a happy camper again.
 

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I Can't stand this thread being so far down the list. I RODE my Fury today.... After...

I put new registration stickers on her.. And I checked on the LED headlight kit I bought 3 years ago and haven't yet installed... Yep, still in the box and it's still 106 outside....
 

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finally found a answer for dummies about flasher relay position and swap for my fury. Did the swap. Original signals work perfectly. Now to swap the LEDs in on the next available non-riding free time. Regular led rear and solar signals from chrome glow. Had them in temporarily during the winter and they were great. But had to wait to do the complete swap til I figured the relay issue. That done now back to the signals.
 
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