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Nice looks clean. Have you dipped the wheels before? How long do they normally last before they need to be touched up?
The previous owner had dipped them black before I bought the bike (so at least 15 months or more). If it wasn't for the fact the dip got tore up when the plate bracket broke there was no need to re do them. I will say I'm glad it had been dipped, think it was the only reason the wheel didn't get all dinged up. If you look close you can see the nick's on the edge of the wheel.
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Now the bad. Color matched the rear, got the wheel on, was lowering the bike and watched in horror as she fell over. :oops:o_O:eek::sick::cry:
Still kicking my self because I forgot I still had my ramp under the the back wheel, just a little 1.5" block so I can get the jack under the frame. Fortunately only major damage was a busted foot peg, 2 little dents on the tank where the right side switch housings hit and a bent brake pedal. The mirror got over torqued stripping some of the thread but I think I can fix it. Air cleaner cover got cracked, may mod it like Kbuskill?? did unless I can find one cheap until I can flash the ecu and install a new intake.
 

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The previous owner had dipped them black before I bought the bike (so at least 15 months or more). If it wasn't for the fact the dip got tore up when the plate bracket broke there was no need to re do them. I will say I'm glad it had been dipped, think it was the only reason the wheel didn't get all dinged up. If you look close you can see the nick's on the edge of the wheel.
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Now the bad. Color matched the rear, got the wheel on, was lowering the bike and watched in horror as she fell over. :oops:o_O:eek::sick::cry:
Still kicking my self because I forgot I still had my ramp under the the back wheel, just a little 1.5" block so I can get the jack under the frame. Fortunately only major damage was a busted foot peg, 2 little dents on the tank where the right side switch housings hit and a bent brake pedal. The mirror got over torqued stripping some of the thread but I think I can fix it. Air cleaner cover got cracked, may mod it like Kbuskill?? did unless I can find one cheap until I can flash the ecu and install a new intake.
Well, to help out, I could offer my Harley intake adapter to you and you could run any Sportster/Harley intake you wanted. I cut out 2 when I made the design. It's mostly bolt and go, but youd have to bend it as it's still a flat pattern.

I'm running a $25 Sportster knock off intake. I did a write up about it if you want to see what I'll talking about. Sorry that happened to you...
 

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I'm running a $25 Sportster knock off intake. I did a write up about it if you want to see what I'll talking about. Sorry that happened to you...
You sir are amazing, I have read that write up I don't know how many times. Bending the bracket is easy. Hard part would be picking a air cleaner LOL.
By the way, how did the truck turn out?
 

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You sir are amazing, I have read that write up I don't know how many times. Bending the bracket is easy. Hard part would be picking a air cleaner LOL.
By the way, how did the truck turn out?
Just let me know, we could meet up or I could mail it.

Truck is doing good after the big repair, did the front and rear pinion seals last week. Rear was a bear of a job. But she's running leak free now, so I'm happy!
 

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I changed my stock mirrors out for bar end mirrors, changed the oil (Amsoil), added a fork bag (above the radiator), replaced the rear brake pedal and foot rest (that I bent when I dropped her), and adjusted the clutch lever freeplay to catch sooner, and adjusted the rear brake light switch to come on with slight pressure, oiled the clutch cable, installed chrome cannella risers, replaced the front brake pads, I went to drill out the baffles in the mufflers, and realized the previous owner had already done it!, Replaced a few factory bolts that were bent, replaced the crankcase breather drip tube, and I removed the stock reflectors. I want the ECU reflash with some slip-ons next. I’ll drill out the air box, too. I fkng love this bike!
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I changed my stock mirrors out for bar end mirrors, changed the oil (Amsoil), added a fork bag (above the radiator), replaced the rear brake pedal and foot rest (that I bent when I dropped her), and adjusted the clutch lever freeplay to catch sooner, and adjusted the rear brake light switch to come on with slight pressure, oiled the clutch cable, installed chrome cannella risers, replaced the front brake pads, I went to drill out the baffles in the mufflers, and realized the previous owner had already done it!, Replaced a few factory bolts that were bent, replaced the crankcase breather drip tube, and I removed the stock reflectors. I want the ECU reflash with some slip-ons next. I’ll drill out the air box, too. I fkng love this bike! View attachment 236437 View attachment 236438 View attachment 236439 View attachment 236437 View attachment 236438 View attachment 236439
It's pretty obvious, you've got the bug... the mod bug... better self quarantine... lol

I will assume that you plan on running extended OCIs since your running Amsoil.

How long do you plan on running the oil or will you use UOA to dictate when the change is needed?
 

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It's pretty obvious, you've got the bug... the mod bug... better self quarantine... lol

I will assume that you plan on running extended OCIs since your running Amsoil.

How long do you plan on running the oil or will you use UOA to dictate when the change is needed?
Yup, I’m going to have to self-quarantine for a loooonnnngggg ride, I mean time. Safest place to be right now is on an open country road - away from everyone else and all their dirty viruses! Maybe I’m imagining things, but it seems to run smoother and shifting seems smoother, too, with the Amsoil. So I’ll see if that changes with mileage before I decide on a set OCI. The recommended 8k seems a bit high to me, but what do I know? I also really like the idea of having the fan kick on sooner when I can get the ECU flashed. I’ve been practicing a lot in parking lots (I’m a new rider with zero skill as of 3 months ago), which I know is hard on the oil bc it heats up so fast. I stop and let it cool down a bit when the fan kicks on, but the oil I just took out only had 3k on it and it was pretty dark. I went with the 10w-30 as recommended by Honda. But now I’m wishing I’d gotten the 10w-40 since I’m in S.C. and it’s been known to get a little warm these parts. Next time...
 

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Yup, I’m going to have to self-quarantine for a loooonnnngggg ride, I mean time. Safest place to be right now is on an open country road - away from everyone else and all their dirty viruses! Maybe I’m imagining things, but it seems to run smoother and shifting seems smoother, too, with the Amsoil. So I’ll see if that changes with mileage before I decide on a set OCI. The recommended 8k seems a bit high to me, but what do I know? I also really like the idea of having the fan kick on sooner when I can get the ECU flashed. I’ve been practicing a lot in parking lots (I’m a new rider with zero skill as of 3 months ago), which I know is hard on the oil bc it heats up so fast. I stop and let it cool down a bit when the fan kicks on, but the oil I just took out only had 3k on it and it was pretty dark. I went with the 10w-30 as recommended by Honda. But now I’m wishing I’d gotten the 10w-40 since I’m in S.C. and it’s been known to get a little warm these parts. Next time...
I ran 10w40 in mine, being in Florida.

I ran Mobil 1 Racing 4T motorcycle oil.

I'm not terribly familiar with the Amsoil products, are they compatible with the wet clutch system in the Fury?

I also run Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15k mile rated) 5w30 in my 2008 Suburban with a dual remote mount oil filter setup and an aftermarket external oil cooler. The 2 oil filters I run equate to 4.5 times the volume of the stock oil filter.

This system ups the capacity from 6qts to 9qts but you only change about 8qts at service time. The other quart stays in the cooler and lines.

I run 13k mile OCIs and the UOA from Blackstone labs says I could run it further if I wanted to.
 

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I ran 10w40 in mine, being in Florida.

I ran Mobil 1 Racing 4T motorcycle oil.

I'm not terribly familiar with the Amsoil products, are they compatible with the wet clutch system in the Fury?

I also run Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15k mile rated) 5w30 in my 2008 Suburban with a dual remote mount oil filter setup and an aftermarket external oil cooler. The 2 oil filters I run equate to 4.5 times the volume of the stock oil filter.

This system ups the capacity from 6qts to 9qts but you only change about 8qts at service time. The other quart stays in the cooler and lines.

I run 13k mile OCIs and the UOA from Blackstone labs says I could run it further if I wanted to.
Wow, that sounds like an intense oil regimen in the Suburban. I’ve never even heard of an oil cooler! Yes, the Amsoil is compatible with the wet clutch system. As per their website:
Smooth, Confident Shifts
AMSOIL Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil contains no friction modifiers and promotes smooth shifting and positive clutch engagement. It is engineered to control heat and prevent slippage and glazing, promoting longer clutch life.
It’s not exactly cheap compared to some other oils. But as much as we spend on mods and gas and everything else, it’s worth it to me to know I’m running one of the best. My Fury is already 10 years in and I plan on running her as hard as I want to for at least another 10!!! I do plan on doing regular changes, whatever I decide that interval to be. I’m fortunate enough to live in an area where there’s really no winter (I think it’s snowed once in the last 10 years?), I ride when most others put theirs away to hibernate. Shit, I got the bike the first week of January - and THAT’S when I learned how to ride!!! 43* @ 65mph? Bring it on...
 

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Wow, that sounds like an intense oil regimen in the Suburban. I’ve never even heard of an oil cooler! Yes, the Amsoil is compatible with the wet clutch system. As per their website:
Smooth, Confident Shifts
AMSOIL Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil contains no friction modifiers and promotes smooth shifting and positive clutch engagement. It is engineered to control heat and prevent slippage and glazing, promoting longer clutch life.
It’s not exactly cheap compared to some other oils. But as much as we spend on mods and gas and everything else, it’s worth it to me to know I’m running one of the best. My Fury is already 10 years in and I plan on running her as hard as I want to for at least another 10!!! I do plan on doing regular changes, whatever I decide that interval to be. I’m fortunate enough to live in an area where there’s really no winter (I think it’s snowed once in the last 10 years?), I ride when most others put theirs away to hibernate. Shit, I got the bike the first week of January - and THAT’S when I learned how to ride!!! 43* @ 65mph? Bring it on...
Honestly having been in the vehicle game a long time, it doesn't matter what oil you run as long as it meets the specs for the vehicle/bike and you change it regularly. Amsoil is a name you're paying for and doesn't offer any more than the other guy, but it gives people that warm fuzzy that they're overpaying for some reason.

I've sent samples to Blackstone on all of my vehicles, multiple times. I'm running Rotella T6 in both my diesels, as well as the dirtbike and the Fury. It's an excellent pricepoint for full synthentic and since I run it in everything it's good to have around. I could go @ 20k intervals for the car and truck, but I'll never let them go that long. I also like the fact that you can get it anywhere if it's needed, no dealer needed.

Nice thing about what we own though, we can spend our money wherever we see fit!

On another note, I finally got the Green Reaper out of the garage, cleaned er up, and went for a spin. Got the second set of pipes on the bike too. This time around much better. No scenic shots though:)

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Honestly having been in the vehicle game a long time, it doesn't matter what oil you run as long as it meets the specs for the vehicle/bike and you change it regularly. Amsoil is a name you're paying for and doesn't offer any more than the other guy, but it gives people that warm fuzzy that they're overpaying for some reason.

I've sent samples to Blackstone on all of my vehicles, multiple times. I'm running Rotella T6 in both my diesels, as well as the dirtbike and the Fury. It's an excellent pricepoint for full synthentic and since I run it in everything it's good to have around. I could go @ 20k intervals for the car and truck, but I'll never let them go that long. I also like the fact that you can get it anywhere if it's needed, no dealer needed.

Nice thing about what we own though, we can spend our money wherever we see fit!

On another note, I finally got the Green Reaper out of the garage, cleaned er up, and went for a spin. Got the second set of pipes on the bike too. This time around much better. No scenic shots though:)

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Good lookin’ pipes, Krash. They really match the rest of the bike. Thanks for your input on the oil situation. Great day to ride.
 

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Good lookin’ pipes, Krash. They really match the rest of the bike. Thanks for your input on the oil situation. Great day to ride.
Much appreciated. This is my third (and favorite) set so far!
 

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Honestly having been in the vehicle game a long time, it doesn't matter what oil you run as long as it meets the specs for the vehicle/bike and you change it regularly. Amsoil is a name you're paying for and doesn't offer any more than the other guy, but it gives people that warm fuzzy that they're overpaying for some reason.

I've sent samples to Blackstone on all of my vehicles, multiple times. I'm running Rotella T6 in both my diesels, as well as the dirtbike and the Fury. It's an excellent pricepoint for full synthentic and since I run it in everything it's good to have around. I could go @ 20k intervals for the car and truck, but I'll never let them go that long. I also like the fact that you can get it anywhere if it's needed, no dealer needed.

Nice thing about what we own though, we can spend our money wherever we see fit!

On another note, I finally got the Green Reaper out of the garage, cleaned er up, and went for a spin. Got the second set of pipes on the bike too. This time around much better. No scenic shots though:)

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The backend of your bike looks like its sagging... you got a busted spring or something?;)

Also those pipes don't look any different than your last two sets, from the kickstand side.
 

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The backend of your bike looks like its sagging... you got a busted spring or something?;)

Also those pipes don't look any different than your last two sets, from the kickstand side.
Dang that can-o-spoons rattle is probably comin' from that darn piece of spring bouncing around back there...

That kickstand shot was only just to get the truck partially in the picture. Proof it still moves.
 

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Got a plesent surprise yesterday. Was not expecting my footpegs till later this week. Was all excited to take a quick spin after installing them until seeing how badly the foot brake was bent.
I now see why the manual talks about removing the master cylinder to pull the pedal off. Once it was off, some time on the press, pedal much better. Except for a slight arc to the arm (fits with the looks of the bike) hard to tell it was bent.
As soon as it warms up a bit more it will be time to take a test ride.
 

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I added Honda’s steel braided clutch cable today. It looks and feels great. I realized the adjustment was off the whole time I’ve had it. It’s much better now. I also have the Spiegler steel braided front brake line, but I’m waiting for the tool to bleed the brakes to be delivered before I install them. It looks simple enough? I also filled in the dent I made in the fuel tank with Bondo fiberglass repair kit. The Bondo did great, but the ColorRite paint does not match my original silver metallic paint job. I’ll probably polish it down then add a sticker.
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... but I’m waiting for the tool to bleed the brakes to be delivered before I install them.
What special tool are you referring to for bleeding the brakes?

Super easy to bleed the bike's brakes...front, remove top reservoir cap, suck old fluid out, put new fluid in, pump lever until firm, crack bleed screw, close bleed screw when lever is at the bar or when you lose pressure, and repeat process until new fluid comes out the line. I would say on the last pump and crack, you close the bleed screw just prior to reaching the handlebar so you don't accidentally let the lever off the bar and draw in air or old fluid. Once complete, top off reservoir and install cover.

Rear is the same process except use the reservoir for the rear brake
 

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What special tool are you referring to for bleeding the brakes?

Super easy to bleed the bike's brakes...front, remove top reservoir cap, suck old fluid out, put new fluid in, pump lever until firm, crack bleed screw, close bleed screw when lever is at the bar or when you lose pressure, and repeat process until new fluid comes out the line. I would say on the last pump and crack, you close the bleed screw just prior to reaching the handlebar so you don't accidentally let the lever off the bar and draw in air or old fluid. Once complete, top off reservoir and install cover.

Rear is the same process except use the reservoir for the rear brake

bikemaster brake bleed and test kit. I’m installing new lines, which I thought meant I had to get the suction going strong to ensure there are no air bubbles in the line. I’ve never done this before, but if I were just putting new brake fluid in I would give it a shot the way you say. From what you’re saying, it sounds like I could do it with just draining completely, removing old line, installing new line, and filling with fresh fluid till it comes out the drain screw? Hmm... maybe I don’t need to wait?
 

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bikemaster brake bleed and test kit. I’m installing new lines, which I thought meant I had to get the suction going strong to ensure there are no air bubbles in the line. I’ve never done this before, but if I were just putting new brake fluid in I would give it a shot the way you say. From what you’re saying, it sounds like I could do it with just draining completely, removing old line, installing new line, and filling with fresh fluid till it comes out the drain screw? Hmm... maybe I don’t need to wait?
Those vac guns are great for checking for any vac leaks in vehicle systems, but that's all I really use them for. I tried it a couple times for pulling fluid through the nipple on the caliper a couple of occasions and it's just more of a PITA then it is helpful. The thing that tends to happen when you pull vacuum at the nipple is you pull fluid out around the bleed screw threads instead of the bleed screw port and it can introduce air into the system. That can sometimes be remedied by adding some grease to the threads prior to the process but you will likely make a mess in doing so, and it doesn't always seal well.

I would just do it the way I stated even with installing new lines. I've replaced the lines on cars and MC's and use the manual method, no special tools needed (except for an extra person at the pedal in a vehicle).

For your line swap, just drain all the old fluid out best you can. When you remove the line, I'd personally have the wheel off and the pads out so you don't contaminate the pads or rotor.
Pop the line off, install new line, then top off reservoir. Then crack the bleed screw. It will gravity bleed into the caliper and line. Don't actuate the lever at this point. Once the reservoir isn't getting any lower just from topping off, then it's time to do the process I stated above. Clean everything off with isopropyl alcohol, re-install pads and wheel, then do your normal bleed which will get all the air out.

You could likely replace the lines with the wheel still on, but you just have to be careful not to get fluid on anything...which it will flow out of the caliper connection and could run to your pads and rotor. So I wouldn't personally risk that.
 

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Thanks for the info Krash. See, I knew there was a reason I joined this forum. Outstanding. I will do tonight and post
Back when done. Thanks again.
 
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