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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been wanting a change of color. Joined a pic at the bottom of this post. Lighting is weird, but essentially I wanna get the front and rear fenders and the tank in a satin black (not exactly matte, not exactly glossy, more like plastic...)

I was contemplating these options:
  • New pro paint job;
  • vinyl wrap in 3M satin black;
  • plasti-dip with a can.
I can get around removing the parts to paint them/wrap them/ have them painted. My problem is really what to get? The plasti-dip seems attractive because it's wayyyy cheaper. but will I get a MATTE finish? Will it get progressively matte-er?

What I like about the wrap is that the finish is exactly what I want, and I can remove it when I dont want it anymore. Still cheaper than the paint job.

Pro paint means I gotta get a real nice idea and paint it proper. Otherwise it's not worth the price. Durable, though.

So does anyone thing I'll get a good finish with plasti-dip? I can possibly buy a can and find out for myself. Just get myself a cheap scrap car part to test the color out.


But I'd prefer getting your opinions first.


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Plastidip is fairly durable and the nice thing is, if you don't like it, it peels right off... and it's cheap.

I recommend several light coats VS one or two heavy coats.

Did I mention it's cheap???... lol... by comparison to the other two options and it would give you an idea as to what the bike will look like without spending a bunch of money in case you decide it's not what you dreamt it would be.
 

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My vote is vinyl wrap. You know immediately what it will look like, theres a bazilian styles to choose from and to me it is easy to do with a hair dryer and a razor blade. The vinyl will protect the paint and lasts easily in the 5 year range.

Plastidip is cheap and easy, doesnt look bad but I still say vinyl because I have grown tired of seeing bad dip jobs and that non maintained dip look.
 

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My recommendation for the dip was merely to see if you like it... if you do, vinyl will hold up much better in the long run but it will cost a lot more to have it done professionally and the tank on the Fury will make it very interesting trying to wrap it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Plastidip is cheap and easy, doesnt look bad but I still say vinyl because I have grown tired of seeing bad dip jobs and that non maintained dip look.
That's very very helpful. The "non-maintained dip look" you're referring to is what I want to avoid. I have no issues with the "rat bike" look, but I'm looking to make it look clean, not like a dirty chalkboard. Perhaps a real-life test IS required.

but it will cost a lot more to have it done professionally and the tank on the Fury will make it very interesting trying to wrap it yourself.
Yes, that is already the plan however. I met with this guy who has a vinyl wrap shop. He's easily the best around my area, hands down. But, to do the bike will likely cost me between 500-550 USD (which is like 750$CAD over here).
AND -- you're right about the tank. After feeling out the logistics of it, you have to "split" the tank in two halves, like a pinstripe following the frame of the bike, right through the refill cap. This enables you to curve the vinyl inwards properly, BUT requires you have a cut-line right through. So I'd be sorta stuck putting in pinstriping, or racing stripes.

I'll see what I can do. At least I'm getting good feedback from you guys, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tribal is where it'll be at. Most likely I'll install some hi-reflect tribals on the forks and the side of the rear fender. That way I can do away with those pesky (but legally required here) reflectors.
 

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Saw that thread. If you want a one-off (to not copy @16brickfury), use a 3" grinding wheel on a small hand grinder to cut some 6" slots for smoked LEDs to push into (pushed from the inside of the fender into the slots) 1.75" off the edge of the fender and it'll look incredible.

(I clean and tape 100% first, mark the pattern on the tape, GO SLOW, use wrist support, GO INSANELY SLOW, use S-6000 between the fender and LEDs on the wheel side to secure the lights into the slots, making sure the S-6000 waterproofs the ends of the lights--starting with waterproof lights that can be run under water then ensuring the seal on both ends is water tight by adding S-6000 because any water vapor that gets inside will eventuall condense and ruin the light strip; I also use waterproof automotive plugs, a professional crimping tool, and dielectric grease inside the waterproof connectors because I hate corroded connectors with intermittant connections)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Saw that thread. If you want a one-off (to not copy @16brickfury), use a 3" grinding wheel on a small hand grinder to cut some 6" slots for smoked LEDs to push into (pushed from the inside of the fender into the slots) 1.75" off the edge of the fender and it'll look incredible.

(I clean and tape 100% first, mark the pattern on the tape, GO SLOW, use wrist support, GO INSANELY SLOW, use S-6000 between the fender and LEDs on the wheel side to secure the lights into the slots, making sure the S-6000 waterproofs the ends of the lights--starting with waterproof lights that can be run under water then ensuring the seal on both ends is water tight by adding S-6000 because any water vapor that gets inside will eventuall condense and ruin the light strip; I also use waterproof automotive plugs, a professional crimping tool, and dielectric grease inside the waterproof connectors because I hate corroded connectors with intermittant connections)
Ok, WHOA. That's a lot of info for a guy who's never ever EVER done any mechanical work aside from putting new mirrors on my bike.
I have lots of questions:
  1. What's S-6000?
  2. Can you give me an example of the waterproof lights you're referring to?
  3. If you're talking about waterproof LEDs, why not use and "encased" LED? Something like a taillight, like in a plastic enclosure?
  4. For the light connection: instead of the plugs, crimp and grease, why can't I simply use heatshrink?
I like the idea of a recessed light fixture inside the fender, but I'm more interested in the idea @16brickfury had... reason being that I need to replace my slim LED integrated taillight. It's apparently not bright enough, and I was handed a ticket because of the brightness levels by some insanely retarded cop. I wanna avoid the problems, so my LEDs must now be OVERbright, hence my original question to @16brickfury about his LEDs.
 

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Ok, WHOA. That's a lot of info for a guy who's never ever EVER done any mechanical work aside from putting new mirrors on my bike.
Congratulations! You're qualified! (just go slow and thing before doing)

What's S-6000?
I'm old. It must be a mental crossup between S-100 detailer and E6000 adhesive. (just use E6000, like I said, I'm old)
235780


Can you give me an example of the waterproof lights you're referring to?
High-density (close-together) very bright lights. I like plastic encased lights designed for the job and DOT approved (avoids your current problem), but flexible sometimes work better. I have non-recessed bullet type so they can be seen from the sides, something more of a "Harley-style" light, but might replace them with Kellermann 1000 units to have more of a custom look.
235781


If you're talking about waterproof LEDs, why not use and "encased" LED? Something like a taillight, like in a plastic enclosure?
If you find something you like, use it! If not, build it!

For the light connection: instead of the plugs, crimp and grease, why can't I simply use heatshrink?
You can! (I don't.) The reason I don't is because air and contaminants like salt get in behind the heat shrink and with water vapor cause embrittlement where the copper wire turns a dark black and becomes brittle and possibly breaks. I use plugs so if a light needs to be removed or there's a trouble-shooting requirement it can be unplugged. If a fender needs to be removed it's much faster to unplug/replug. Crimps are better than solder or twist connections (I'm a convert to crimping--I used to solder everything, until I found out crimping was better). Automotive waterproof plugs seal on both sides, but I still use grease so if a seal fails (dirt/heat) the connection is still waterproof.

Yes, this is far more expensive and time consuming (up front), but the last thing I want is for my work to fail in two years and I then have to figure out what the he!! that custom circuit does, find the problem, fix it, and then have something else fail behind it. (I build a lot of custom stuff, so remembering every detail isn't going to happen.) I suppose in reality the last thing I want is for a light to fail and I get hit; we have several members here that got smucked (see Saccadic masking), and the permanent damage sucks, which is why I go with DOT lights which can be seen from every practical angle under all lighting conditions, and use professional grade equipment/parts.

I like the idea of a recessed light fixture inside the fender, but I'm more interested in the idea @16brickfury had... reason being that I need to replace my slim LED integrated taillight. It's apparently not bright enough, and I was handed a ticket because of the brightness levels by some insanely retarded cop. I wanna avoid the problems, so my LEDs must now be OVERbright, hence my original question to @16brickfury about his LEDs.
Technically, you need to be running DOT compliant lights marked as such. (Not my call, only trying to be helpful.)

(note: click on underlined words for more information)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@WI_Hedgehog , that's possibly one of the best answers to one of my posts I've ever seen. Thanks for having taken the time!
I installed KiWAV Lucifer 2-tone LED-equipped mirrors. When I did, I actually connected everything behind the headlight by soldering it all. And OBVIOUSLY I messed up -- when I turn on the hi-beam, my riding mirror lights turn off (the white lights). My turn signals work well, however, and they make the flashing mirror lights work (amber).
SO I get the idea of using plugs. What tools do you use for crimping, and do you get the plugs on Amazon?
 

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I'm also contemplating modding the back of the bike like this. Hopefully I'll find the lights to do it, so once it's modded I'd get the vinyl done.
That's very very helpful. The "non-maintained dip look" you're referring to is what I want to avoid. I have no issues with the "rat bike" look, but I'm looking to make it look clean, not like a dirty chalkboard. Perhaps a real-life test IS required.


Yes, that is already the plan however. I met with this guy who has a vinyl wrap shop. He's easily the best around my area, hands down. But, to do the bike will likely cost me between 500-550 USD (which is like 750$CAD over here).
AND -- you're right about the tank. After feeling out the logistics of it, you have to "split" the tank in two halves, like a pinstripe following the frame of the bike, right through the refill cap. This enables you to curve the vinyl inwards properly, BUT requires you have a cut-line right through. So I'd be sorta stuck putting in pinstriping, or racing stripes.

I'll see what I can do. At least I'm getting good feedback from you guys, thanks!
Vinyl is very easy to do. I know every last thing about the surface of this tank and Im telling you, vinyl is able to conform like a mofo to the surface.

Go to amazon, buy a cheap 12 inch x 12 inch piece of vinyl and get your hair dryer. Clean and cover something with it. It is super easy. If you mess up, heat it up and reposition.

Just my take. I am not paying that much cash for something that is really not hard.
I admit, some complicated car jobs are difficult but IMO, any dude that can prep the surface properly can do vinyl.

Most vinyl is very stretchy. Remember that.
You are about to make my purchase some vinyl to do a tutorial.
 

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You're welcome @couzin2000. I like the illuminated mirror idea, gives a bit more visibility by making the motorcycle stand out.



I'm guessing you wired the Nike symbol into the low beam, which is fine; the high-beam probably overpowers the mirror lights. (I don't know if it pays to wire it into an hot-with-ignition wire.)

You did a good job, many people have issues getting the directionals to work properly due to the flashback circuit and single indicator light, depending on what they put in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You did a good job, many people have issues getting the directionals to work properly due to the flashback circuit and single indicator light, depending on what they put in.
Actually, I have the whites "always on" when the low beams are on, ambers are hooked up to the turn signals. When I switch on the high beam, the whites turn off.
There was I believe a power wire coming straight from the battery to which I should have connected the whites, effectively bypassing the hi/lo switch. That would have left the whites always on, but I think I would have needed a fuse perhaps. But I figure, when the high beam is on, no one sees the whites anyway. So I'm just not bothering with it.

Vinyl is very easy to do. I know every last thing about the surface of this tank and Im telling you, vinyl is able to conform like a mofo to the surface.

Go to amazon, buy a cheap 12 inch x 12 inch piece of vinyl and get your hair dryer. Clean and cover something with it. It is super easy. If you mess up, heat it up and reposition.

Just my take. I am not paying that much cash for something that is really not hard.
I admit, some complicated car jobs are difficult but IMO, any dude that can prep the surface properly can do vinyl.

Most vinyl is very stretchy. Remember that.
You are about to make my purchase some vinyl to do a tutorial.
I have watched countless videos of vinyl wrap being put on. I agree, the surface must be perfectly clean. But applying the wrap... that's not easy. Perhaps if someone is more experienced, more confident. I'd have to buy 2 kits worth. Just to try and affix the vinyl myself, try my hand at it. Plus, one thing I have NOT seen in ANY tutorial video, is how you FINISH the wrap off. That inch that's hanging off the side of the fender one the vinyl has been stretched propely... that has to be wrapped underneath the fender. So the part UNDER the fender has to be absolutely spotless as well... and that takes a helluva long and meticulous wash. And I'm not sure how you make it stick under unless you actually DETACH the fender from the bike. Usually people who vinyl wrap don't take those parts off. But I might have to. (And removing a gas tank is not something I've ever done... you can understand my concern, you must have felt this too your first time).
So I'll see what I decide to do. Could be a challenge.
 

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Actually, I have the whites "always on" when the low beams are on, ambers are hooked up to the turn signals. When I switch on the high beam, the whites turn off.
There was I believe a power wire coming straight from the battery to which I should have connected the whites, effectively bypassing the hi/lo switch. That would have left the whites always on, but I think I would have needed a fuse perhaps. But I figure, when the high beam is on, no one sees the whites anyway. So I'm just not bothering with it.



I have watched countless videos of vinyl wrap being put on. I agree, the surface must be perfectly clean. But applying the wrap... that's not easy. Perhaps if someone is more experienced, more confident. I'd have to buy 2 kits worth. Just to try and affix the vinyl myself, try my hand at it. Plus, one thing I have NOT seen in ANY tutorial video, is how you FINISH the wrap off. That inch that's hanging off the side of the fender one the vinyl has been stretched propely... that has to be wrapped underneath the fender. So the part UNDER the fender has to be absolutely spotless as well... and that takes a helluva long and meticulous wash. And I'm not sure how you make it stick under unless you actually DETACH the fender from the bike. Usually people who vinyl wrap don't take those parts off. But I might have to. (And removing a gas tank is not something I've ever done... you can understand my concern, you must have felt this too your first time).
So I'll see what I decide to do. Could be a challenge.
Fender, tank etc is very simple to take of. The jist of the matter is simply, you need to get the confidence. Yes the parts to be wrapped need to come off to be done properly. Keep watching the videos though. the wrap needs to be trimmed wits either light cutting with a new razor or you can buy the tape that has the cutter in it and place that on all your cut lines before wrapping. Once activated, the wrap sticks pretty darned well. That may vary if you are using some super crap cheap stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fender, tank etc is very simple to take of. The jist of the matter is simply, you need to get the confidence. Yes the parts to be wrapped need to come off to be done properly. Keep watching the videos though. the wrap needs to be trimmed wits either light cutting with a new razor or you can buy the tape that has the cutter in it and place that on all your cut lines before wrapping. Once activated, the wrap sticks pretty darned well. That may vary if you are using some super crap cheap stuff.
It's not just a matter of watching videos. That really doesn't give you a feeling for the material. You also have to practice multiple times. I'll probably wrap my son's Nintendo first, do a couple other things before I spend 150$ on the wrap for my bike. Just so I can get the hang of it.
Also I already have an idea of how to appropriately wrap the tank - cause you gotta figure the parts are pretty curvy. By talking to a guy who does this for a living, he mentioned that he'd most likely have to cover the tank in 2 separate sheets of wrap, or you'd get too much wrinkling. To make it look really nice I'll have to put some sort of stripe in the middle so I can cover the crease between the 2 wrap parts.
Also I ordered some samples from Amazon for 3M 1080 wrap. We'll see if I like the black they offer (there's 4 I'm waiting on). Most pros use 3M, Vvivid, or Inozetek. 3M seemed like a sure bet for me. Avery still getting some mixed reviews.
 

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I found using a picture frame and putting the wrap on the edges of the frame,center the tank under the frame. then push it over the tank using a heat gun stretching it out,use the felt squeegee to push it on. start at the middle and work your way out to the edges. use the adhesive on edges ans low places.. it stretch out a lot. you can do it alone or best to have a friend help you out... I wrapped a bike a few years ago.vivid and 3m wrap is best i think.. most likely gonna wrap mine in carbon fiber wrap. not sure the color yet
 
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